Author Topic: Wild Rise Pizza on Slice by: Adam Kuban  (Read 2403 times)

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Offline norma427

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Wild Rise Pizza on Slice by: Adam Kuban
« on: September 23, 2011, 12:44:09 PM »
http://slice.seriouseats.com/archives/2011/09/wild-rise-jay-street-bar-pizza-dumbo-brooklyn-nyc.html
http://dumbonyc.com/2011/09/08/wild-rise-pizza-opens-in-dumbo/
http://gothamist.com/2011/09/20/dumbo_gets_a_new_pizza_place_three.php
http://www.wildrise.com/blog/

Sure looks like a different type of oven to bake a pizza in.  Maybe one of our more talented members with building things could produce a test oven like the one Wild Rise uses.  :)

Norma
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buceriasdon

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Re: Wild Rise Pizza on Slice by: Adam Kuban
« Reply #1 on: September 23, 2011, 01:57:42 PM »
Norma, The oven is an electric pottery kiln. A raku kiln. The upper part is raised by a cable. Like so:
http://www.bigceramicstore.com/supplies/kilns/olympicelectricraku.htm
 Before I moved to Mexico I used the same sort of oven for pizza.
Don
« Last Edit: September 23, 2011, 04:59:30 PM by buceriasdon »

Offline scott r

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Re: Wild Rise Pizza on Slice by: Adam Kuban
« Reply #2 on: September 23, 2011, 02:12:16 PM »
Brilliant!   Im sure this works flawlessly!    My old maytag oven started doing weird stuff after 600 or so cleaning cycle bakes.    For the first 35 minutes of the cycle only the top element would turn on and it would stay on the whole time.    I actually got my fastest bakes (around 1 minute) by putting the pizza in the oven at exactly the 30 minute mark.   at that point there was no bottom heat, but the top heat had brought the stone to exactly 850 degrees.    Since the top element stayed on full blast all the time it made a perfectly balanced bake.   

I was trying to source ezzo pepperoni for a pizzeria in northern NJ last year and ezzo informed me that there was no distribution in the NYC area    That means these guys went way out of their way to bring in that pepperoni..   It could just be chance, but something tells me that between the ezzo...the creative oven,  and the wild yeast they were inspired by Pizzamaking.com!   

scott123

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Re: Wild Rise Pizza on Slice by: Adam Kuban
« Reply #3 on: September 23, 2011, 04:40:29 PM »
Where's the exhaust? What happens if you spill sauce or cheese on the hearth? Would any fire inspector sign off on this?

I have to give them credit for ingenuity.  A kiln should produce a very nice even heat.  They may not even need to turn the pies during baking.

Offline scott r

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Re: Wild Rise Pizza on Slice by: Adam Kuban
« Reply #4 on: September 23, 2011, 05:01:24 PM »
im sure they don't need to turn.   I always get nice even bakes without turning in my cleaning cycle bakes.     I made pies for years in a windowless basement apartment kitchen with no vent.   

Offline norma427

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Re: Wild Rise Pizza on Slice by: Adam Kuban
« Reply #5 on: September 23, 2011, 08:29:02 PM »
Norma, The oven is an electric pottery kiln. A raku kiln. The upper part is raised by a cable. Like so:
http://www.bigceramicstore.com/supplies/kilns/olympicelectricraku.htm
 Before I moved to Mexico I used the same sort of oven for pizza.
Don

Don,

When I looked at their oven I had no idea how that thing operated.  Thanks for the link!  :)  How did you like the same sort of oven for baking pizzas?

orma
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Offline dellavecchia

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Re: Wild Rise Pizza on Slice by: Adam Kuban
« Reply #6 on: September 24, 2011, 07:50:28 AM »
Before I moved to Mexico I used the same sort of oven for pizza.
Don

Don - You were Brooklyn hipster cool way before those guys!

John

Offline Mick.Chicago

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Re: Wild Rise Pizza on Slice by: Adam Kuban
« Reply #7 on: September 24, 2011, 08:01:40 AM »
I love the oven idea, but the Pizza's (that I've seen) don't compare to the look of some of the pizza's posted by members here.   

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Offline Mick.Chicago

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Re: Wild Rise Pizza on Slice by: Adam Kuban
« Reply #9 on: September 26, 2011, 12:31:38 PM »
The pictures in those links look much better!   


Offline scott r

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Re: Wild Rise Pizza on Slice by: Adam Kuban
« Reply #10 on: September 26, 2011, 12:50:46 PM »
the definitely have the same look as a "broiler on all the time" type of pizza.   The lepoarding doesn't go all the way around the sides, and the cheese gets an unusual char to it.   Still, I think there is potential there to make some of the best high temp pizza in the city, considering they are all buffala all the time, and the fact that they are using wild yeast.     

Offline akuban

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Re: Wild Rise Pizza on Slice by: Adam Kuban
« Reply #11 on: September 26, 2011, 09:11:53 PM »
Just jumping in here. This is Adam Kuban from Slice.

Yeah. It's a kiln, hacked in some way or another, as Don notes. The owner was hesitant about going on the record with that, because he was worried it wouldn't pass muster with the food authorities. Which is why I didn't mention it was a kiln. (I guess I'm doing so here, but, you know, if an outfit is serving pizza to the public, it's incumbent on the owner to have cleared their stuff with the inspectors.)

As far as turning the pies, they actually did turn them. They'd raise the thing, lift the pie to inspect, and then turn as needed.

My photos sort of suck. I went at night, and it's dark in the place. Some of those other photos are really nice and show the pies in the daytime. Those other pies look better than the ones I had, which Pizzablogger pointed out that mine were sort of pancaked around the edges. As youve seen, others have more rise around the rim.

The guy wouldn't reveal the source on the pepperoni other than to say it came from Ohio and that it's hard to get. Also that it's lower in fat than most commercial pepperoni. The charring around the rim of the pepperoni, too -- everything screams Ezzo to me.

They can onlyl do one pizza at a time in that "oven." And there seemed to be a relatively long "recharge" time on the heating between pies. I can't see them keeping up if they get really popular. Maybe two of those ovens would do the trick.

Then again, if they got popular, maybe they could afford to move somewhere where they could put in a WFO. It's neat to be able to eat pizza at the bar here, but it's not really set up as a restaurant.

Blah blah blah. Hope that sheds a little more light on things.
¡Hasta la pizza!

Offline Mick.Chicago

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Re: Wild Rise Pizza on Slice by: Adam Kuban
« Reply #12 on: September 26, 2011, 09:18:19 PM »
Thanks Adam, appreciate it.

Offline norma427

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Re: Wild Rise Pizza on Slice by: Adam Kuban
« Reply #13 on: September 26, 2011, 10:09:15 PM »
Thanks, Adam!  :)

Norma
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scott123

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Re: Wild Rise Pizza on Slice by: Adam Kuban
« Reply #14 on: September 26, 2011, 11:24:12 PM »
Yeah. It's a kiln, hacked in some way or another, as Don notes. The owner was hesitant about going on the record with that, because he was worried it wouldn't pass muster with the food authorities. Which is why I didn't mention it was a kiln. (I guess I'm doing so here, but, you know, if an outfit is serving pizza to the public, it's incumbent on the owner to have cleared their stuff with the inspectors.)

If he didn't want anyone recognizing it as a kiln he should have preventing you from taking photos because anyone with any ceramics experience would recognize it as one.  When I did raku in college, we did it with a regular open top kiln, grabbing the red hot pottery with long metal tongs, so I wasn't familiar with this particular variety, but I knew immediately that it was a kiln.

And, just to be clear, this is definitely not 'hacked in some way or another.'  This is a raku kiln straight out of the box. The link Don posted was to a crank version, but you can buy raku kilns with counterweights.

http://www.seattlepotterysupply.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=sps_ecat&Product_Code=30099&Category_Code=RK

Edit: If you are still in contact with these guys, they can shorten the pre-heat on the hearth by switching to a more conductive, darker colored material.  They'd probably need to play around with the thickness a bit, but the right thickness of steel should give them just enough heat to bake one pie and, then, with the conductivity/color, replenish quite quickly.  Pre-heating a white (heat reflecting) firebrick (poor conductivity) hearth with infrared is just silly. Soapstone would also probably be an improvement, although it wouldn't preheat quite as quickly as steel.  He hasn't posted in a while, but we've got a forum member that makes custom cordierite/mullite stones. He might be able to make one in black. When it comes to absorbing IR heat, once you go black, you'll never go back  ;D
« Last Edit: September 26, 2011, 11:56:41 PM by scott123 »

Offline scott r

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Re: Wild Rise Pizza on Slice by: Adam Kuban
« Reply #15 on: October 03, 2011, 10:30:00 AM »
My brother in law lives in brooklyn, so I of course had to send him here.    He knows good food (works at momofuku!) and is always up for visiting new pizzerias.   He timed all these pies at wild rise at 40 seconds!   Said the place rocked, and they are using a wet dough.   

Offline scott r

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Re: Wild Rise Pizza on Slice by: Adam Kuban
« Reply #16 on: October 03, 2011, 10:31:23 AM »
two more

Offline scott r

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Re: Wild Rise Pizza on Slice by: Adam Kuban
« Reply #17 on: October 03, 2011, 10:35:06 AM »
this seems to be a very easy and consistent way to make 40 second pies.    hmmm....was just about to pull the trigger on a wfo, but this has me thinking twice about that.   I know there is so much more you can do with a WFO, but a brand new raku kiln is just over 1k.   WOW!
« Last Edit: October 03, 2011, 10:43:25 AM by scott r »

scott123

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Re: Wild Rise Pizza on Slice by: Adam Kuban
« Reply #18 on: October 03, 2011, 10:46:57 AM »
Scott, while I'm certain that you can do great things with a raku kiln and that raku kilns might be feasible alternatives to WFOs, those pizzas, to me, look off.

Offline norma427

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Re: Wild Rise Pizza on Slice by: Adam Kuban
« Reply #19 on: October 03, 2011, 11:57:09 AM »
My brother in law lives in brooklyn, so I of course had to send him here.    He knows good food (works at momofuku!) and is always up for visiting new pizzerias.   He timed all these pies at wild rise at 40 seconds!   Said the place rocked, and they are using a wet dough.   

scott r,

Wow, 40 seconds sure was a fast bake.  How did he describe the taste of the pies compared to Neapolitan pies baked in a WFO?

Norma
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