Given the choice of the Superlative, All trumps, or KASL, which one would be the best choice for NY Style?
Superlative (12.6% protein).
Protein is potential gluten. X amount of protein doesn't give you X amount of gluten. It gives you a window. Depending on how you develop the gluten, a specific protein level can give you a range of textures. The textural ranges for 12.6% protein flour (Superlative) and 14% flour (AT/KASL) overlap. In other words, you can push the gluten development on a 12.6% protein flour to make it act like a minimally developed 14% flour. 14% can range from slightly chewy to tough, while 12.6% can go from moderately tender to slightly chewy. Where they overlap is where you want to be, but... if you underknead/underdevelop the gluten in a 12.6% protein dough, you still end up with a tender crust (that's really never too tender, imo), but if you overknead/overdevelop the gluten in a 14% protein dough, you've got leather.
Both protein levels can get you where you want to be, but the lower value, Superlative, offers far less room for error.
