We ate at Una Pizza Napoletana last Saturday night. This is one place that I had to try at least once to use as a benchmark given its legendary status. While driving by the SF neighborhood, I was expecting a line outside so I had some backup Neo places to go to like Mozzeria or even Del Popolo just in case, but there was no line and there was a parking spot a few meters away so it was a no brainer.
As soon as you walk in the door, you will see Anthony right in front with the stunning oven right at the center of the pizzeria. We were immediately seated since there were a few tables open. We ordered the Margherita and the Apolonia - Eggs, salame, parm, bufalo mozzarella, garlic, basil, evoo, black pepper (which was only available on Saturdays). According to their menu, they use Dickson Napa Ranch Olive oil and Dani Coop San Marzano. It seems like Anthony is also following the "local" craze among chefs which, IMO, is smart and responsible.
The Margherita came after about 15 mins and was followed by the Apolonia after another 15 mins. I timed his pies as soon as they were launched in the oven and on the 3 separate batches that I timed them, they were all above 2 mins (around 2:15 secs average). I was a bit surprised since I always thought that his bake times would be in the 90 sec range max.
CRUST
The crust had an excellent flavor from the natural leaven. The wild yeast flavor is really coming through without being sour. This is one area where Anthony really displayed his expertise in managing fermentation. It was very soft and tender with just the right amount of chew. However, the crust was too puffy for my taste which was bordering on being too "bready" or doughy. The puff from the rim was too big in relation to the overall size of the pie, which I was not a fan of. I know some people prefer a large puffy rim.
SAUCE
The tomato flavor was really coming through but some seasoning to balance the acidity from the tomatoes would have made it really "pop" and make you come back for more after the 1st bite.
CHEESE
The buffalo mozzarella leaked too much water. It seemed like the cheese was not drained at all so the pie was a bit too watery for me.
OTHER TOPPINGS
The eggs and salame were nowhere to be found in the Apolonia pie. He put beaten eggs underneath the cheese and they turned into scrambled eggs. The salame where cut into 1/4in cubes. Maybe, he put 6-8 pieces but I did not really see or taste them.
I have to say that I was a bit underwhelmed with his pizzas. They were good pizzas but I cannot even try to justify the huge price tag that goes with it especially when some decent competition is charging 40% cheaper. That being said, any pizza enthusiast should still eat at UPN at least once even if only to experience the flavor from the crust.
Some pics:
