Author Topic: Il Cane Rosso- Dallas, Tx  (Read 24321 times)

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Offline acbova

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Re: Il Cane Rosso- Dallas, Tx
« Reply #20 on: March 31, 2011, 08:02:08 AM »
Looks like I'm a little late to this party.   I went to Cane Rosso earlier this month and it was all I was expecting.  We got a seat by the oven and pizza prep areas.  For three of us we got a salad 2 pizzas and a dessert pizza.   All were great.   

I've been to eat Cane Rosso pizza before and always been impressed with the freshness and simplicity his ingredients. 

My company has a project coming up this summer in Dallas.  @Jay I'd be happy to roll dough for you rather then sit in the evening in my hotel room!  I need the practice!



Offline jjerrier2450

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Re: Il Cane Rosso- Dallas, Tx
« Reply #21 on: April 14, 2011, 03:00:44 PM »
Attached below is the review that will be printed in this Friday's DMN...online behind the paywall today.  I'm thrilled we survived our first review and would like to thank all of the pizzaioli, servers, kitchen staff, bartenders, bussers, managers and hostesses that helped us pull this off.  Most of all thanks to everyone who followed us around with our mobile oven and gave us the confidence to open up a brick-and-mortar space!
 
***********
By Leslie Brenner - Food Critic

After a slice, then two, then three of a regina margherita pie at Cane Rosso, I’m hit by an epiphany. I’ve found my religion: I’m a pizzaist.
I’m serious, and here’s why. The Naples-style pizza that emerges from the wood-burning oven at Jay Jerrier’s 2-month-old Deep Ellum pizzeria is more than outstanding; it’s knock-it-out-of-the-ballpark excellent. When I think about what’s involved in its creation — flour, water, salt, yeast, milk and tomatoes plus chemistry, the human touch, heat and love — and that something so incredibly compelling comes from things so elemental, I’m overwhelmed by an oceanic feeling.
Jerrier’s regina margherita is not only the best pizza I’ve had in Dallas, it’s also one of the best I’ve had in the country. The crust, charred and blistered, is at once chewy, crisp and tender. Pick up a slice and it sags just a little toward its point; the crispness tiptoes to a decrescendo. The flavor of the crust is deep and nutty. The toppings — tomato, buffalo mozzarella and basil — that melt with deep flavor into the crust are in perfect balance.
This slice speaks to my soul more loudly than a dish with 20 fabulous ingredients executed brilliantly by a pedigreed chef.
What elevates it to something transcendent is the human element. The kneading of the dough. The thought that goes into the pizzaiolo’s decision to give that dough a long, slow rise. His love of the craft, the passion that drives him to excellence. The eons of human history that culminate in the most basic and effective of ovens, as in the red-tiled, wood-burning beauty that’s not only the focal point, but also the heart of Cane Rosso (pronounced Cah-nay Roh-soh).
The cavernous space, with its high ceilings, exposed air ducts, and hard wooden benches that serve as banquettes, isn’t much of a dining room, but it has a nice feel. Whimsical pillows, some of them looking like giant green olives with pimentos, soften the benches. A high granite counter snakes around the oven; stools offer cat-bird perches to watch the pizzaiolos slide the pies into the flames and pull them out. Above the fiery mouth are the letters CANE ROSSO (“red dog” in Italian) spelled out in white tiles.
The menu’s simple: a few basic starters, sandwiches, a pasta of the day and those glorious pizzas.
Starters include a fine but undistinguished Caesar; a “mista” with good field greens, grape tomatoes, a too-sweet dressing and shaved Parmigiano; a salumi platter; and a few more. A brief list of mostly Italian wines offers a handful of whites and a modest selection of friendly reds, all between $25 and $40. There’s a small list of craft beers, some of them on tap.
I wish there were a more compelling salad, something as simple and Italian as the pizza, like arugula with shaved Parmigiano. I can’t help but wonder who orders focaccia or fried dough before pizza; something light fits the bill better. That said, I love the creamy Burrata with a little mound of nicely cooked rapini buried under it. A few leaves of baby arugula are scattered on top, and it’s dressed with just a little good olive oil and sea salt. A couple of griddled crostini lean against it, a perfect vehicle for a smear of Burrata and greens.
Pappardelle, one day’s pasta special, was drowned in way too much of a very good pork ragu. But a sandwich du jour was fabulous — slices of sausage from Jimmy’s Food Store, roasted peppers, caramelized onions, red sauce and mozzarella, all melted inside well-charred pizza bread.
Jerrier is one of several Dallas pizzaioli certified by the Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana, the organization that trains cooks to make authentic Naples-style pizza. The dough must include only imported double-zero flour, water, yeast and sea salt; tomatoes must be plum tomatoes from Italy. But he approaches his craft with a level of seriousness that goes beyond the requirements of ingredients and oven type. That long, slow rise he gives the dough, for instance, results in superior texture and flavor. And not only does he make his own mozzarella (known in pizza circles as fior di latte), but it’s fabulous. Though mozzarella is a simple cheese, it’s not easy to master. Jerrier’s has perfect texture, much softer in the middle than on the edges, and a lovely milky freshness.
Though Cane Rosso’s warm, friendly servers are eager to please, they’re not necessarily well-informed about the menu and ingredients. (No, pappardelle is not a “tiny bit wider” than linguini.)
When my friends and I couldn’t decide between the regular margherita pizza and the regina margherita, our server raved about the regina, going on and on about how the buffalo mozzarella made it a better pizza. I wish we hadn’t listened — while we did love the regina, after tasting Jerrier’s outstanding fior di latte, I would have preferred to order the classic. Next time.
When I asked about a wine, a 2007 Lamborghini Trescone from Umbria for $40 (I figured it was the closest I’d ever get to a Lambo), the server described it as “much drier” than the other Italian reds. Yes, it’s just a pizzeria, but when such incredible attention is paid to the pies, it would be nice if the staff had at least a basic understanding of the small, uncomplicated wine list.
Back to the pizzas. The “Motorino,” topped with Burrata spread thin, crumbles of Jimmy’s sausage, rapini and basil and spiced up pretty good with Calabrian chiles, did not disappoint. Like all the pies I tasted, it got the balance of ingredients just right, without getting too loaded down. It reminded me of the “Gus” I had tasted on a previous visit (mushrooms instead of chiles, mozzarella instead of Burrata). In fact, though there are 21 pizzas from which to choose, many of them are too similar. “Cassie” is like “Gus” but with hot soppressata instead of sausage; “Funghi” is “Gus” minus the sausage. One that does feel different is the “Prosciutto e rucola,” topped with arugula leaves and luxurious, thicker-than-usual slices of prosciutto from Salumeria Biellese in New Jersey, made from Berkshire pork. Wonderful.
The 14-inch pies are big enough to share, but everything sounds and looks and smells so great it’s hard not to over-order. Still, even if you’ve eaten too much pizza and a doughy dessert sounds insane, force yourself. The “Bella Mela” dessert pizza, topped with thick-cut caramelized apples that might have escaped from a tarte Tatin, plus a smidge of vanilla mascarpone, a good dose of caramel sauce and a touch of sea salt, rocks. I even loved the s’mores calzone, pizza dough folded over chocolate chips and marshmallow, charred in the oven and sprinkled with powdered sugar. It arrives sliced, all gooey and melty, big enough for three or four. Zeppole, balls of hot, crisp, not too sweet fried dough dusted with powdered sugar, come in a paper bag, with a pot of chocolate sauce for dipping. What a treat.
That Jerrier, who started Cane Rosso 21/2 years ago when he brought a just-purchased mobile pizza oven to his daughter’s school carnival, has put down roots in Deep Ellum is very good news. He still has the mobile oven, which blazes on Tuesdays at Green Spot Market in Dallas, Wednesdays at Times Ten Cellars in Dallas and Thursdays at Times Ten Cellars in Fort Worth. (He also uses it to cater private and corporate events.)
It will be interesting to see whether eventually Jerrier will pull the threads together to make his restaurant as completely compelling as his pizza. I’d start by offering more interesting antipasti, training the waitstaff and making the forlorn patio more appealing.
But with that massive, glowing red oven at its heart, the quirky new place on Commerce Street seems heaven sent. It is a true temple of pizza, a place where I, for one, will worship as often as I can — and fervently.
Cane Rosso (3 stars)
Price: $$ (starters $5 to $15, sandwiches, pasta and pizzas $10 to $15, desserts for sharing $10)
Service: Attentive and super-earnest, if not always well-informed about the ingredients and wine list
Ambience: The bright-red-tiled wood-burning pizza oven is the heart of the cavernous, rough-around-the-edges dining room; there’s a spacious, if not exactly alluring, patio on the side.
Location: 2612 Commerce St. (in Deep Ellum), Dallas; 214-741-1188; www.ilcanerosso.com
Hours: Lunch Tuesday-Saturday 11 a.m. to 3 p.m., dinner Thursday-Saturday 5 to 11 p.m., or as late as there are still customers
Credit cards: All major
Wheelchair accessible: Yes
Smoking area: On the patio
Alcohol: Beer and wine only. The mostly Italian wine list offers a handful of whites, and a modest selection of friendly reds, all between $25 and $40.

Offline Jackie Tran

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Re: Il Cane Rosso- Dallas, Tx
« Reply #22 on: April 14, 2011, 03:20:23 PM »
Very cool and well deserved.  Congratulations Cane Rosso and wishing you continued success.

Chau

Offline Jet_deck

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Re: Il Cane Rosso- Dallas, Tx
« Reply #23 on: April 14, 2011, 03:27:29 PM »
Conrats, I'm glad your hard work is respected and appreciated by the reviewer.  Can't wait to meet again, hopefully soon. :chef:
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Offline Jet_deck

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Re: Il Cane Rosso- Dallas, Tx
« Reply #24 on: November 11, 2011, 04:56:56 PM »
New video posted by Jay.  "Cane Rosso Margherita"

<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qXNVEAl3ICM&amp;feature=mfu_in_order&amp;list=UL" target="_blank" class="aeva_link bbc_link new_win">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qXNVEAl3ICM&amp;feature=mfu_in_order&amp;list=UL</a>


Her mind is Tiffany-twisted, she got the Mercedes bends

Offline pizzablogger

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Re: Il Cane Rosso- Dallas, Tx
« Reply #25 on: November 11, 2011, 06:32:45 PM »
New video posted by Jay.  "Cane Rosso Margherita"

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qXNVEAl3ICM&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL


About a 59 to 60 second bake.

Jay, was that for video purposes only, or is that how the margherita is constructed usually at The Red Dog?

I did not see any sea salt or olive oil added in the video (or a hard cheese, which is optional).

This is where I get confused and it is interesting hearing from a VPN Certified pizza maker. In the AVPN Disciplinare documentation, under section 2.3.3 (techniques for condiment) in the "Pizza Margherita" section, it specifically mentions the build order for a margherita is tomatoes, then salt uniformly (if it has not been previously added to the tomato, which may be the case here and why the salt addition is not shown in the video), then mozzarella, then grated hard cheese (if used) then basil, then olive oil.

In the video there is no salt addition (maybe because the tomatoes are already seasoned with it), the basil is added before the mozzarella (which I personally have no probelm with) and there is no olive oil added. In my mind I always wonder why the AVPN would have taken the time to specifically put on paper a build order for making the pizza, yet pizzerias not following the specifically layed out Il Disciplinare build order are granted VPN status all the time.

Jay, I am in no way inferring your pizzas are not excellent pizzas (I'm a big fan of yours), but looking for some additional clarity on what is often a confusing issue with regards to the interpretation of the VPNs own documentation. Thanks! --K  :)
"It's Baltimore, gentlemen, the gods will not save you." --Burrell

Offline othafa9

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Re: Il Cane Rosso- Dallas, Tx
« Reply #26 on: November 12, 2011, 12:09:14 AM »
I can guarantee that salt is added to sauce.  The oil may be an oversight, normally Dino would add oil.

Offline jjerrier2450

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Re: Il Cane Rosso- Dallas, Tx
« Reply #27 on: November 12, 2011, 10:00:54 AM »
I just did the video because I needed to send it to someone for a project.

Salt is added to the sauce.  No hard cheese is used.  I oil the pizzas to finish - I think the flavor is better then when cooked.  Personal preference.

Sometimes we do basil before cheese, sometimes at the end...depends on how crazy it is.

Offline DocSpine

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Re: Il Cane Rosso- Dallas, Tx
« Reply #28 on: November 12, 2011, 12:22:52 PM »
Since I live in Dallas, any non VPN pizza should be sent to me for devouring I mean destruction >:D :-D
Its a yummy hard job but someone has to do it. :pizza:

Offline Matthew

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Re: Il Cane Rosso- Dallas, Tx
« Reply #29 on: November 12, 2011, 02:36:41 PM »
I just did the video because I needed to send it to someone for a project.

Salt is added to the sauce.  No hard cheese is used.  I oil the pizzas to finish - I think the flavor is better then when cooked.  Personal preference.

Sometimes we do basil before cheese, sometimes at the end...depends on how crazy it is.

I agree on the oil. I use a high quality finishing olive oil & I put it on just before it leaves the pass.

Matt


Offline TXCraig1

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Re: Il Cane Rosso- Dallas, Tx
« Reply #30 on: November 13, 2011, 05:58:32 PM »
I agree on the oil. I use a high quality finishing olive oil & I put it on just before it leaves the pass.

Matt

Same here.

CL
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Offline jjerrier2450

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Re: Il Cane Rosso- Dallas, Tx
« Reply #31 on: November 23, 2011, 09:59:14 AM »
More good news - we just made the list of Top Ten New restaurants...

http://www.dmagazine.com/Home/D_Magazine/2011/Dec/The_Best_New_Restaurants_in_Dallas_2011_06.aspx

If anyone on this board knows anyone that wants to seriously make pizza with Dino and me, send them my way. We are growing really quickly. It's a great opportunity to learn from Dino and work in a state with no income tax.

Offline DocSpine

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Re: Il Cane Rosso- Dallas, Tx
« Reply #32 on: November 23, 2011, 12:31:11 PM »
Doing my best Arnold Horshack imitation "ooh, ooh, pick me!" I am retired (52) and bored and love to make pizza. I can help with some part time/ full time hours if you need.

Offline gabaghool

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Re: Il Cane Rosso- Dallas, Tx
« Reply #33 on: November 30, 2011, 06:38:34 PM »
Congrats J-
A nice writeup from a writer who shows some food knowledge..... (thats not a given any longer)

I was interested in your burrata....do you make it in house with marscapone or buy it with the heavy, heavy cream and shreds of mooz ?

Thanks.

Offline othafa9

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Re: Il Cane Rosso- Dallas, Tx
« Reply #34 on: December 01, 2011, 10:58:45 PM »
Jay, you looking to open a 2nd location?

Offline jjerrier2450

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Re: Il Cane Rosso- Dallas, Tx
« Reply #35 on: December 02, 2011, 10:40:23 AM »
Yes we are looking at a second location now in addition to expanding our existing space.

On Burrata - we get it in from California, but we are also making it with our fresh mozzarella filled with super rich cream and shards of curd.  We're still playing around with it.


Offline jjerrier2450

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Re: Il Cane Rosso- Dallas, Tx
« Reply #36 on: December 09, 2011, 05:34:01 PM »

Offline Jet_deck

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Re: Il Cane Rosso- Dallas, Tx
« Reply #37 on: December 09, 2011, 07:08:24 PM »
That is excellent news Jay!  I am sure you have worked hard for all the attention that your fixin' to get.  Better get the second location up and running pretty quick.

You know someone here is going to reverse engineer your pizza after we watch the segment, right?  :-D

Describe Guy for us.  Was he California crazy, bouncing off the walls or down to earth ?

Thanks for the update, I have a certain picture in front of your oven that I need to get framed...   ;D :chef:

(no offense intended for Californians)
Her mind is Tiffany-twisted, she got the Mercedes bends

Offline andreguidon

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Re: Il Cane Rosso- Dallas, Tx
« Reply #38 on: December 09, 2011, 07:20:58 PM »
congrats! let us know wen it airs...
"Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication." Leonardo da Vinci

Offline Tman1

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Re: Il Cane Rosso- Dallas, Tx
« Reply #39 on: December 09, 2011, 09:52:27 PM »
awesome.. just awesome


 

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