Back ground story
My wife and I went to a wine festival over the weekend. I saw a mobile Pizza kitchen advertising NP pizza so I decided to give it a try. The oven was a fire within unit. Looking inside there was no live fire but just coals. I didn't time the bakes BUT they seemed greater than 2 minutes bordering 3mins or longer. The rim was rather blonde with a definite crunch to it suggesting the longer bake times. They were baking about 6-8 smallish 10" pies at a time.
I got a chance to talk pizza with the owner, a very nice guy. He said that he uses 00 flour, a 60% hydration, a 90 second bake (which I doubted for several reasons). He didn't mention the type of yeast used but according to his website he has been VPN certified/trained.
I didn't get any pics of the pizza but as I said earlier, blonde crunchy rim, the bottom was tan and not charred. You don't get a tan bottom from 900F and a 90 second bake. You just don't.
The pizza overall was decent but the crust and crumb, I really liked. Now onto the crumb. It was tight celled and exceedingly soft with a crunchy crisp exterior. Very little chew. It reminded me of Bianco's crumb...exceedingly tender. It also reminded me of some of my favorite baguettes with that exceedingly soft crumb and crispy exterior. I have never been able to achieve this texture in trying to replicate those baguettes and chalked it up to dough enhancers and what not.
I tried a lower hydration CY pizza dough but it was a failure of sorts. I had some extra CY thawed from the freezer and I decided to make an experimental loaf of bread with it.
The bread came out really different texturally from my other Tartine styled breads. The crumb was just like the crumb I had at the wine festival. It was exceedingly soft, tender, semi moist. Not much chew at all in the crust or crumb despite using a HG bromated flour for the bread. The crumb seemed to just melt in my mouth. I have made many loaves of bread the same way. The only change this time was the CY. Just then I recalled that Bianco told me he uses old dough with a bit of CY. No doubt the old dough is just another source of CY as well. So I'm thinking the CY gives a very specific crust and crumb texture.
There must be a reason why NP pizza is made with CY. My initial findings is that it gives a very unique crust and crumb texture, mouth feel, and taste.
The crust. The best way to describe it, is that it can be a bit "powdery" dry and crisp. Gives way to the teeth easily. I noted this same crust texture with the pizza crust I had at the wine festival and the very same crust texture of the bread. It is a bit crusty and crunchy but little chew to it. Very unlike my typical bread made with the same HG flour and IDY or a starter. But with this bread I had to bake it a bit longer to get the right color, almost 10 minutes longer despite lowering the hydration by 5%.
The crumb - exceedingly soft and tender depsite the flour. mobile pizza - 00 flour. Bianco's - Giusto's BF with a bit of HG flour mixed in. My bread - HG bromated flour. Melt in your mouth soft unlike my typically pizza which is soft but not melt in your mouth.
I don't know if there is any truth to any of this, just observations. I'm hoping that members can confirm this. I will definitely be doing more experimental bakes with CY to see if I can reproduce this certain texture in pizza.
Here is the bread made with CY and cold fermented overnight and a few crumb shots.
Has anyone experience this with CY before?