Craig,
It looks like, according to Omid's latest post, it depends upon the environment of your kitchen, geographic location and weather as if you use the direct or indirect method of fermentation. The same pizzaiola uses the direct method (like 4/24) at one location and the indirect (like 24/4) at another location. The one that has a retard cooler, he uses the direct. Craig, according to your temperatures, you should use the indirect, which is what you do. I cold retard the dough balls, so I should use the direct method.
After that, the numbers will vary based upon type of flour (alot to learn there--measurements of elasticity, cohesiveness, extensibility, impermeablility) used, water used, hydration, ADY vs SD, salt and the method to which you add the ingredients and achieve point of pasta. Then, there is the issue of the effects of temperatures at different stages of the process (marble storage areas!). On top of that, your cooking medium (temperature, conduction, convection and radiation) will dictate the variables listed above.
Currently, I use 61% hydration (spring water) of 11.7% protein flour, 2.6% salt and 1% ADY. I use 37F water to make a little salt water, mix ADY with some of the flour, put rest of the water in a bowl, add the ADY, mix, add salt water, mix and then add the rest of the flour. I mix by hand until I achieve point of pasta. I let this rest at 69F for 4 hours.
Then, I form dough balls (250g), as you would mozzarella, seal the umbilical, and cold retard 37F for 24 hours. I remove the dough balls and let rest 69F for two hours, just prior to bake.
I place two stones in the oven, one below the gas (flame)(Radiation) broiler, and the second one two shelves down. This creates a top and bottom stone (Conduction) for better heat, since I cook at 550F (Convection). I preheat the oven for 1 hour. This is my best effort to create a WFO enviornment.
The sauce is made from canned crushed tomatoes, 1 basil leaf, 1 smashed clove of garlic, 1 fillet of anchovies (pulverized) and a dash of lemon juice, then salt and sugar (to taste) to balance the acidity, sour, bitter and sweet of the current crop of tomatoes. Rest sauce in refrigerator for 1 day to infuse flavors.
I oven roast 450F the vegetables (onions, mushrooms, squash, fennel, peppers, etc.) with VOO, salt, pepper, balsamic vinegar and liquid smoke...I make my own italian sausage, guanciale, pancetta, bacon, pepperone, etc. I pre-cook these before adding to the pizza...I use fresh whole milk mozzarella, grana panada, parmegiano reggiano, whole milk ricotta, etc...Sea salt, dried oregano, garlic confit, anchovies, soppressata, calabrese, salami, miscellaneous charcuterie, olives, honey, miscellaneous herbs, etc.
I place mozz first on the hand stretched dough (push air to rim), paint each chunk with sauce, picasso more on the pizza, chiffonade basil, EEOV, sea salt (then stretch again on peel) and cook between the stones to achieve cornicione (7 minutes approx). I then turn on the gas broiler and place pizza on top stone to achieve char (1 minute max).
Then, post-bake, I add a little more fresh mozz (for two different consistencies of mozz, baked and melted) and a little more basil. Cut into squares and serve the Margherita.
Other varieties include, 1)Sausage and Onion, 2)Guanciale and Garlic, 3)Rosa, 4)Shaved Salami, Black Olive and Toasted Pine Nuts, 5)Pancetta and Braised Fennel, 6) Lardons and Three Way Mushrooms, etc. I use a variety of pre-bake, mid-bake, and post-bake strategies based upon the ingredients used.
The real issue here is how we change from day-to-day with more knowledge and more experience based upon our environment, ingredients and most importantly, our individual tastes. My next quest is to try your sourdough levain, and see what difference that makes. Isn't it great that there is no one answer to making the best pizza, but that it is a quest to improve. To manage this quest, it is important to document past results and continue to tweak the process.
Someday, I wish to have an oven like yours. Your passion is almost unparalleled (with Omid and a few others), and I really appreciate you guys sharing your growing knowledge and experience of the Neapolitan Style Pizze. Also, thanks to a personal conversation with the humble Chris Bianco, I have used his philosophy of attempting to constantly improve the pizza making process, never being satisfied.
Thanks so much,
RJelli---North Idaho Environment with a Gas Oven and Gas Broiler)
