MONTREAL - The crust is puffy and golden around the edges, bubbled in spots, with a soft interior moistened by a layer of lightly seasoned tomato sauce. Atop that, a stack of paper-thin pepperoni slices, followed by a scattering of mushrooms and green pepper. And then the crowning glory: a blanket of stretchy melted cheese, lightly browned.
Thatís an old-school Montreal pizza
The rest: http://www.montrealgazette.com/life/Montreal+school+pizza/4423732/story.html
This local style, traditionally served up by mom-and-pop places here, has been on the endangered-species list for quite some time, but hopefully the author is accurate in spotting a trend towards a comeback.
The description in the article probably won't strike most folks here as anything special, but believe me, there is a special synergy in the way the ingredients go together (in the particular order mentioned in the article) that make these pies a soft and sumptuous treat when done right.
The dough for these pies is very well-kneaded and has between 3-5% oil, and on average they are baked at about 500 for about 8-12 minutes. They are thicker than the average round pie, but nowhere nearly as thick as a Sicilian (.12 TF is a good target here). The best exemplars will have some char along the rim, and leopard-spots on the bottom.
Cheese tends to be Saputo Mozzarelissima, which is the local equivalent of Grande.
The placement of the pepperoni underneath the cheese ensures that it cooks instead of bakes, giving it a succulent as opposed to crispy character. The large amount of pepperoni (enough to cover the entire surface) together with the fact that its juices stay trapped within the pie instead of dissipating into the atmosphere from the top, seasons the whole pizza in a uniquely delicious way.
Cornicones, as mentioned in the article, should be large and fluffy, and are really a type of bread in their own right, and not just the toppings-less outer edge of the crust.
They're even better with bacon and anchovies- which was the full, original meaning of "all dressed", although by now most places chrage extra for those two things.
They're best enjoyed after an evening of hard drinking with one's buddies, which is when the flavour really comes alive.