Author Topic: Pizza in Positano and Sorrento Italy (Read 4516 times)

scott r · « **on:** August 21, 2005, 07:29:06 PM »

Surprisingly it is easy to find bready, somewhat tough pizza in these areas. Every time I ask someone where the best pizza in town is they say to just go to Naples. Luckily it is just an hour away from Sorrento where I am staying, or two hours from Positano or Ravello.

I guess with the unforgiving character of Italian 00 flours it is hard to get that magic pie every time. I have managed to find two places that don't leave you with that too-full feeling, and have a nice light pie. I really thought I would find more since 90% of the restaurants in the area offer pizza on the menu, and there seems to be a restaurant everywhere you look.

Here are my two faves with some pics. The best so far is Chez Black, right on the beach in Positano. This pizza was a lunch pie, and I could tell that it would have been even better around dinner time when the dough would be more mature.

scott r · « **Reply #1 on:** August 21, 2005, 07:47:48 PM »

De Franco, (or Franco's as some call it) in Sorrento was great too, but not really Neapolitan style. It was very similar in taste and texture to Sally's in New Haven back in the States. I could not help but snap a picture of the pie on the table next to mine for obvious reasons. Believe it or not, this is one big pie! The thumbs up says it all doesn't it. You can get pies of any size, but the default size and shape is actually the same as Sally's as well. I wonder if this place was an inspiration, as it seems to have been around for a really long time.
The people here are so friendly and fun to be around. There are many parts of Europe where I don't feel so accepted to be an American that doesn't know the language. Many people here are happy to converse in English, and really seem to get a kick out of it. I love it here so much that I want to stay forever. So far between Sorrento, Amalfi, and Positano I have had the best vacation of my life times 10, and it is not just the food. Anyone planning a vacation should check out the scene here. Direct flights are not cheap, but you can fly to Amsterdam, London, or Ireland really cheap, then book a $100 flight from there to Naples or Rome and save tons.

scott r · « **Reply #2 on:** August 21, 2005, 07:55:45 PM »

They need a big oven to make a pie this size! This baby has an area filled with wood that is piled up from the front to the back of the long oven. There is an area to the right and left of the pile of wood to cook the pizza. Notice the pizza physique of the pizzaiolo.

scott r · « **Reply #3 on:** August 21, 2005, 08:07:38 PM »

On my way into Positano I spotted this bag of Caputo flour sitting on the side of the road and had to stop and snap a picture.

scott r · « **Reply #4 on:** August 21, 2005, 08:22:03 PM »

since the above pic makes the place look a little trashy (which it is not), I wanted to show some of the beauty of the region. Sorry to go non pizza related here, but this is where it was invented all right???!!!!??!!

scott r · « **Reply #5 on:** August 21, 2005, 08:35:23 PM »

Those are lemons on the left the size of cantaloupe. They also grow slightly jumbo sized lemons pictured on the right. All the food is so simple here. It is really seems to be based on having the best ingredients and restraint. I think my cooking is going to be a lot better when I get home.

David · « **Reply #6 on:** August 21, 2005, 08:59:43 PM »

Fantastic Scott ! Keep 'em coming.........I just got back from the BVI and feel like jumping on a plane to Napoli right now.Let me know where the best Espresso can be found in Naples also?Have a great vacation.

scott r · « **Reply #7 on:** August 21, 2005, 09:20:44 PM »

David, I am not a huge coffee drinker, but I am travelling with a bunch of people who seem to think that every place they go is better than anything in the states. I have not made it to Naples yet, but so far there has not a been a bad cup yet. They seem to take their coffee even more seriously than their pizza. Even the bus driver who took us from the airport to Sorrento handed us all free shots of espresso from his personal stash as we got on the bus.

I took my honeymoon in Virgin Gorda BVI, and I loved the laid back atmosphere, but I don't think I will be going anywhere other than Campagna for many vacations to come. This region of Italy has the amazing crystal clear blue water, plenty of nightlife, historical attractions that date back to the roman empire (and maybe even further?? Marco?), some of the best food in the world, and on top of that it is not really that expensive to vacation here. Italy's switch to the Euro has really helped us out. Most of all the culture and people here exude an electricity that I have never felt anywhere else.

David · « **Reply #8 on:** August 21, 2005, 09:46:52 PM »

Don't worry Scott,you are preaching to the converted !I fell in love with it years ago and try and get there at least once a year.I've been told by more than a couple of Italians though,that the best espresso is to be found in Palermo.I've invested a LOT of money in my home Espresso machine and (like my oven / mixer ) it has been money well spent.Your point about the quality of Ingredients is well made.Smell those Lemons and taste those Oranges.......I'm sure you have discovered the passion that is evident seemingly everywhere for eating quality food and the apparent simplicity of preparation.I'm sure though that like Pizza.it appears simpler than it actually is.

ebpizza · « **Reply #9 on:** August 22, 2005, 09:40:48 AM »

Another Naples requirement should be a rum baba and sfogliatelle..

Some well know places to get both

Pasticceria Carraturo, via Garibaldi 59, Naples.
Open daily.

Pasticceria Attanasio, vico Ferrovia 2/3/4, Naples.
Closed Monday.

Pasticceria Pintauro, via Roma 275, Naples.
Closed Tuesday.

Scaturchio:
Piazza S. Domenico Maggiore 19, tel. (081) 551-6944. Closed Tuesdays.

ps. try not to look like a tourist in Naples otherwise you may become a target of pick-pocketers .;-)

pizzanapoletana · « **Reply #10 on:** August 22, 2005, 03:55:32 PM »

Hi Scott,

I am glad that you are enjoying your holiday even more then when I left you there. I have left that panoramas and sunshine to be back in the gray/rainy London.... Anyway, I have told you were I will hopefully buy my retirement home ;-)

Just a couple of points on your Pizza in the Sorrento and Amalfi costiera: I told you so!!! if you go back at the original thread, it was the first thing I told you: "Those are not place to eat pizza".

On the historic notes: Naples was founded by the Greek long before Rome, and has retained much of his independence throughout the Roman era ("Naples at Table" by A Schwartz has a good introduction with a summarized history). Sorrento and Capri reached their peeks during the Roman Empire and have become internationally renowed in the 18-19th centuries when the form part of the English Gran Tour.

Lastly, I hope you will find some pizzeria back in business when you will get to Naples (in August, Naples become a Ghost city, where all the business are closed but food retailers). The only one I found open that is wort a visit was Capasso, near Piazza Cavour/ Porta San Gennaro.

Take care

scott r · « **Reply #11 on:** August 22, 2005, 07:27:27 PM »

I am so glad to have another place to try tomorrow. Unfortunately Da Michele, Il Pizzaiolo Del Presidente, and Sorbillo were all closed for holiday.

Naples was almost overwhelming, but we started to get used to it by the end of our visit. I could not have imagined a place so different from Sorrento. I think with more people walking around I will like it much better.

Lucky for me Costa was open today and words can not describe what I had there. I tried the fried calzone for 1 1/2 euro, and the mini pizzas for 1 euro at the walk up street vending side. I thought I was doing alright in the sauce area, but now I know I have a lot of work to do. This pie had a strong sourdough flavor that I loved, right about the same level as Una Pizza. I am assuming they are using a yeast starter culture. The mini pizzas were folded, and I loved eating them this way. Pure heaven. This was the most melt in your mouth dough I have ever tasted.

After walking around to find all Marco's recommended pizzerias closed, I decided to head back to Trianon for dinner since it is near the train station. It was very hard to not go back to Costa since they are very close to each other, but my companions thought I was crazy. The pizza at Trianon was not quite as sexy as Costa, but still miles ahead of just about any pizzeria I have tried in the US. We ordered two pies with cherry tomatoes, and one with ham and red sauce, all DOC with buffalo mozzarella. The pies here are really thin, and could not hold up to the massive amount of moisture from the tomatoes/ham/mozzarella even with a knife and fork. They were soggy except for the very edges. If I ever go back I will stick to a standard margherita or marinara. These pies had no sourdough flavor that I could taste, but still a REALLY tender crust. The sauce tasted just like Stanislaus Alta Cuccina's, not San Marzanos. I know they don't sell them here, but it was pretty funny!

scott r · « **Reply #12 on:** August 22, 2005, 07:30:10 PM »

costa pics

scott r · « **Reply #13 on:** August 22, 2005, 07:32:39 PM »

this guy was wearing white bedroom slippers and black socks while he made the calzone. I wish I had a shot of that.

scott r · « **Reply #14 on:** August 22, 2005, 07:35:28 PM »

they would make a batch of 8 or so mini pies at a time instead of selling slices of big pies like we do here in the states.

scott r · « **Reply #15 on:** August 22, 2005, 07:39:45 PM »

The oven at Trianon was the hottest I have ever seen. It was well tended and raging. I sat 20 feet away from it and it must have been 110 degrees while the rest of the room was cool. I have no idea how anyone could work that oven all day.

scott r · « **Reply #16 on:** August 22, 2005, 07:43:47 PM »

The pies here at Trianon look better than the Costa pies, but don't be fooled by appearance.

scott r · « **Reply #17 on:** August 22, 2005, 07:50:26 PM »

The pies are not kept in the oven very long here.

scott r · « **Reply #18 on:** August 22, 2005, 08:26:20 PM »

trianon is a popular pizzeria

pizzanapoletana · « **Reply #19 on:** August 23, 2005, 06:45:55 AM »

Scott,

I am not sure you are still in Naples, however if you are, try Capasso and let me know.

Costa use indeed a Crisceto, and as they do not really manage it properly, when is hot like now in Naples, the dough gets a bit to sour. Their normal pizza is not as sour, I can guarantee.

The sauce in Naples of Costa and Trianon it is only pure San MArzano (no cooked sauce or mixes). Trianon use a small producer from Salerno that works only for him. Costa one is La Fiammante or La Torrente usually, but at times they use my favourite brand, which is not retailed but only sold to pizzeria.

Also note that Costa (as well as Gino Sorbillo) use Polselli flour, that also gives a different taste to the dough. Trianon uses a mix of Caputos.

Enjoy your remaining days.

Ciao