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At Don Antonio by Starita and at Forcella, I finished the crust on the montanara, but left the crusts of the traditional pizzas on the plate, losing interest after a bite or two. Both places have authentic Neapolitan pedigrees, and produce crusts with the spring and lightness that are hallmarks of that style. But they don’t have the full flavor of the long-risen doughs that some American pizzerias like Co. are exploring.