I decided to give it a shot yesterday. I took a store bought dough ball, rolled it out, cut a 9" round, par-baked it and deep fried it. Topped with homemade chili, bacon, and Sargento reduced fat, 4-cheese Mexican.
I have to agree with the NY Times writer, frying does indeed "add a dimension to dough that is otherwise unremarkable."
It was very good and I'll definitely try it again.