Last Friday, I decided to mix up a new soaker and preferment before I left for the weekendĖwhich I why I havenít posted the formula yet. At the time, I was not sure what style of pies I wanted to create (e.g. round, grandma, sicilian, tabisca etc), only that I wanted to make a durum dough. Given my indecisiveness, I plugged in a generic formula for three 14in pies (TF = 0.1) to allow myself some latitude to explore other styles if I desired, and to modify the final dough formula if I wished.
Several observations were made upon mixing up the soaker. Initially the durum flour was very wet, tacky and lacked the strength that is apparent in KAAP flours soakers. After about 1h cooling down on the counter, conditions had not changed. At this point I was not necessarily concerned, I knew that durum has a lower gluten content than other wheats, but I was very surprised that this mixture wasnít thicker than it was. Typically, I use a hydration level between 70-72% for 50/50 durum mixes, however, based on previous results with higher hydration epoxy formulas and the texture of this soaker, I knew that I would need to drop my hydration level. When I arrived back in town on Sunday afternoon, I decided to pull back my hydration level to 68%. The following formula below was used to create my final doughs.
Flour (100%): 693.13 g | 24.45 oz | 1.53 lbs
Water (68%): 471.33 g | 16.63 oz | 1.04 lbs
Salt (2%): 13.86 g | 0.49 oz | 0.03 lbs | 2.89 tsp | 0.96 tbsp
Total (170%): 1178.32 g | 41.56 oz | 2.6 lbs | TF = 0.09
Single Ball: 392.77 g | 13.85 oz | 0.87 lbs
Preferment (20% total flour weight):
Flour (KAAP): 69.31 g | 2.44 oz | 0.15 lbs
Water (Temp 78F): 69.31 g | 2.44 oz | 0.15 lbs
Total: 138.63 g | 4.89 oz | 0.31 lbs
Soaker (50% total dough weight):
Flour (Durum): 294.58 g | 10.39 oz | 0.65 lbs
Water (Temp 125F): 294.58 g | 10.39 oz | 0.65 lbs
Total: 589.16 g | 20.78 oz | 1.3 lbs
Flour (KAAP): 329.24 g
Water: 107.44 g
Salt: 13.86 g
Soaker: 589.16 g
Preferment: 138.63 g
To mix the final dough I decided to use the food processor for two reason,
1) I was feeling lazy, 1) the dough was cold after resting at room temp for an hour, and 2) given the lack strength in the soaker and that it accounted for 50% of the total dough weight, I knew I would need some extra muscle to develop the final dough. The final dough mixed and pulsed in the food processor for approximately 30 sec till the dough homologous and a moderate amount of gluten was developed. The final dough temp after processing was 74.6F. The final dough was refrigerated overnight at 42F in bulk.
Yesterday afternoon, 3h prior to baking, the dough was taken out of the fridge, and divided into three doughs. I decided I wanted to make one grandma style pie (approximately 450g in a 10 x 15in pan) and two round pies (approximately 340g each).
The oven was preheated at 550F for approximately 75 mins.
Similar to previous epoxy doughs, the durum dough balls were a little tacky, but were a breeze to open up. The dough balls all had decent strength to them, however they were not quite as strong as the AP doughs. In retrospect, I think the 68% hydration level for this mix is the upper limit for this dough and it could easily be brought down to 65-66% to add a little more strength to it. The bake time for the doughs was about a minute, minute-and-a-half longer than previous pies, approximately 7.5 to 8 minutes.
The end product surpassed my expectations. The pies brown beautifully, the oven spring was great and the texture was moderately chewy, slightly soft, and moist with a nice crisp crust. The flavor of the crust had me smiling with every bite from the tip to the bones of the pizza. The crust tasted mildly sweet, a little buttery, with a durum nuttiness to it and did not taste bready by any means. This was certainly the best tasting durum crust I have made to date.
*The toppings were:
Grandma - mix of mozzarella and young pecorino, a fresh tomato sauce, and oregano.
Round pie: sausage, Brussel sprouts, mozzarella, and Sambuca.
Rianata: chopped tomatoes, garlic, anchovies, chili flakes, young pecorino, aged pecorino, and oregano.