I'm not so sure about that Kenji guy...seems like his tastes are locked in a NY "box" and he can't think (or taste) outside of it...,IMHO of course.
Actually, Bob, that review is a perfect example of Kenji's ability to view Nicoletta through a different lens. The concept that Nicoletta requires a different, less NY-centric perspective to appreciate it is something that I've been saying since the Time's review. From that perspective, Kenji knocked it out of the park.
I think that framing Nicoletta in a chain context misses the mark, though. Kenji, in the comments, explained that he used the chain reference as a way of explaining Midwestern pizza to people that have never had it, but I don't think the word 'chain' deserves to be in any Nicoletta discussion. Maybe Kenji doesn't think 'chain' is pejorative, but I think it's a major slam. That's how the first commenter reacted as well.