New York Times Review (8/7/12): Nicoletta, by Michael White

[SquirrelFlight]

Apples and oranges. (Or apples and pizzas?)

Looks like I forgot a smily to indicate tongue-in-cheekiness.   

[TXCraig1]

A different point of view: http://www.thedailymeal.com/Pete-Wells-Doesnt-Know-Cheese-About-Pizza

[Pete-zza]

Another review, from Bloomberg: http://www.bloomberg.com/news/2012-08-08/michael-white-s-nicoletta-stumbles-on-cheesiness-review.html.

Peter

[Chicago Bob]

 Are these reviewers all eating at the same pizzaria?......

[scott123]

Thanks, but I am not in Michael whites league.  I am a small town pizza guy that loves everything pizza!!

Larry, I guarantee you, if White had the humility to have za junior make Lorenzo's pizza and top it with his upscale toppings, the reviews would be an entirely different story.  You'd still have the urban xenophobia to midwestern culture that would need to be overcome, but breaking through that opposition would be FAR easier than what White is seeing now.

White might be one of the country's foremost Italian chefs, but you and za jr. are a thousand times better pizzamakers.

[JConk007]

Just saying-  I would like to join you when you go  to Nicoletta been waiting since June    You will need a break after that fair. So hoping it works out this time   see ya soon!
John

[weemis]

Just read this post at slice which explains things a little better:
http://slice.seriouseats.com/archives/2012/08/nicoletta-review-michael-white.html?ref=pop_slice

[Chicago Bob]

I'm not so sure about that Kenji guy...seems like his tastes are locked in a NY "box" and he can't think (or taste) outside of it...,IMHO of course. 

[Mal]

 I wouldn't say Kenji is "locked" into NY. From what I've read he's quite big on Neapolitan as well as Pizza Bianca (in Rome) + other styles (tomato pie etc.)...although granted perhaps his tastes haven't ventured quite as far as Chitown yet

[scott123]

I'm not so sure about that Kenji guy...seems like his tastes are locked in a NY "box" and he can't think (or taste) outside of it...,IMHO of course. 

Actually, Bob, that review is a perfect example of Kenji's ability to view Nicoletta through a different lens.  The concept that Nicoletta requires a different, less NY-centric perspective to appreciate it is something that I've been saying since the Time's review. From that perspective, Kenji knocked it out of the park.

I think that framing Nicoletta in a chain context misses the mark, though.  Kenji, in the comments, explained that he used the chain reference as a way of explaining Midwestern pizza to people that have never had it, but I don't think the word 'chain' deserves to be in any Nicoletta discussion. Maybe Kenji doesn't think 'chain' is pejorative, but I think it's a major slam.  That's how the first commenter reacted as well.

[Chicago Bob]

I meant NY as in NYC...sorry. Ya know, like..".NY state of mind "(box)

[JConk007]

Hi All !
I had the pleasure of dining with The Za man and the entire Family at Nicoletta Tuesday night. A real treat indeed between the great people and what I thought was great pizza it was a fun filled 1 1/2 hours for sure !  Let me first say what a wonderful Family Larry has! to put together a trip to NYC to eat pizza catch a show and just get 9 people together in place is a feat in itself !  
Pizza Yes we ate pizza and almost one of everything else on the menu !! Salads, appetizers tampanade... It was all top shelf Chicken wings Lasagna  gnocci? ate so much I don't even remember 1/2 the dishes! wish i took a menu ! I did remember the Pizza for sure !
I am glad these critics NY or not, finally figured out the what Micheal was looking for was something different ! This is not a NY style pizza or  slice Joint ! The toppings and combinations are all top chef quality escarole, eggplant ricotta not your everyday street slice for sure. Personally I real enjoyed the pizza. Its great to have something different I eat so many NY style slices with the exception of pizza town and 1 or 2 others they all seem to just run together. This was a fresh Change. The Marsal Ovens more than do the trick and there is no sheeter anywhere all pies very gently hand spread and put on their own personal peel for launching. The pizza was fresh and topping tasty I immediately noticed the nice crisp bottom Micro blisters Scott! and the beautiful softness above it ! all with no pan or oil!! My favortie was also the calabrese with cupped pepperoni sausage with a nice kick and onions. Larry even treated me to one of these to go as mentioned it heated up beautiful a full day later on a 450 degree stone and had very little difference from eating at the restaurant . If you are in NYC by on 2nd between 10thand 11th GO TRY THIS PIZZA ! I don't think you will be disappointed I was surely not !
John

[TXCraig1]

Sounds like they are still having some difficulties.

"What this opulence can't disguise, though, is an uneven crust. It's often dense and damp in places, fantastically inflated in others, sometimes charred and sometimes pale as a whitewashed fence. This crust is anathema to a pizza fanatic; it's like visiting a different pizzeria with every bite... I took another bite of that disappointing crust, and my mind went back to college: It tasted like the Tombstone frozen pizzas once served in Wisconsin bars and warmed in lightbulb cabinets."

http://www.villagevoice.com/2012-10-10/restaurants/badgering-the-pizza-at-nicoletta/