I have been experimenting lately with pftaylor's all-purpose flour family recipe for making a same-day dough for a NY style pizza. To achieve the same results (i.e., flavor, texture, color, etc.) as using a high-gluten flour and a long fermentation period, for example, 24 hours or more, means having to effectively trick the all-purpose dough into believing that it is really high-gluten dough with some age under its belt. That's a tough order to fill.
After calculating the baker's percents for rftaylor's original recipe, and making some other changes to allow me to make a pizza dough ball with a weight (around 20 oz) sufficient to make a single 16-inch pizza, I came up with the following dough formulation:
11.95 oz. (100%) all-purpose flour (about 2 7/8 c.)
7.55 oz. (63%) warm (around 100 degrees F) water (a bit more than 7/8 c.)
0.20 oz. (1.74%) Carnation Original malted milk powder (about 2 1/2 t.)
0.75 oz. (0.62%) Kosher salt (about 1/2 t.)
0.18 oz. (1.5%) olive oil (about 1 t.)
0.04 IDY (0.34%) (about 3/8 t.)
The major changes I made to the original recipe were to reduce the hydration percentage from over 70% to 63%, substitute IDY for cake yeast, reduce the amount of olive oil to just 1 t., and to scale the quantities of the ingredients used to achieve a roughly 20 oz. dough ball weight. It will be noted that in the rftaylor recipe, the olive oil is not mixed in with the other dough ingredients, as is commonly done with a NY style pizza dough. Instead, it is used to coat the dough ball just before it goes into a slightly preheated oven. In my case, I used only a single teaspoon since I concluded that the calculated amount of almost 5 teaspoons based on the original recipe would have been too much, even though much of it might have remained in the bowl when I removed the dough after it had risen.
I prepared the dough using a food processor. I combined the dry ingredients in the processor bowl and then gradually added the warm water and pulsed it in until a dough ball formed between the blade and the sides of the bowl, about 2 minutes. I then pulsed in the olive oil for about another minute. I oiled the dough and placed it in a bowl (uncovered) and then into the slightly preheated oven. As another departure from the original recipe, I placed a glass Pyrex measuring cup of water that I had brought to a boil into the oven alongside the bowl of dough to provide some added moisture for the dough. After the dough had risen for about 2 hours, I punched the dough down again but this time I put the dough into my proofing box (set at the same temperature as the oven compartment) so that I would have the oven available to preheat, along with my pizza stone, for the final hour in preparation for baking, as the dough was rising for the second time (for 1 more hour).
When the dough came out of the proofing box, I shaped it into a 16-inch round and placed it onto a 16-inch pizza screen. The dough was very extensible but shaped and stretched easily. I attribute the high degree of extensibility to the high-temperature (around 100-110 degrees F) and high-humidity environment to which the dough was exposed for a period of 3 hours. I dressed the pizza in a simple tomato and cheese style and baked it on the pizza screen on an upper oven rack for around 7-8 minutes, following which I slid the pizza onto the pizza stone (on the lowest oven rack) for about another 2-3 minutes to achieve increased top and bottom browning.
The photos below show the finished product. The taste and texture of the crust was quite good, and exhibited all of the physical characteristics of a typical NY style pizza (limpness, flexibility, etc.), but I am not prepared to say that it is the equal of a crust made from a high-gluten flour, with its more developed and denser gluten structure, and that has developed a much fuller range of flavor-enhancing fermentation byproducts as a result of the much longer (and cooler) fermentation period. It is possible that the very high-temperature baking system used by pftaylor for his recipe makes up for some of this, but it seems to me that it is hard to rush the process (going from, say, 24 hours to 3 hours) and achieve the same results. There may be other ways of trying to trick the all-purpose dough into thinking it is a high-gluten dough and, along these lines, I am thinking of using vital wheat gluten to at least achieve a protein content that is closer to high-gluten flour. I do know from past experiments that it is difficult to use far above-average temperatures (water or ambient) and high moisture to make a good same-day dough based on either bread flour or high-gluten flour. So, those nagging doubts remain.
I welcome any comments or ideas that jftaylor may have based on his experiences and seeing the modifications I made to his recipe, and particularly so since he has recently had an opportunity to try the KASL high-gluten flour in a NY style pizza dough.