Author Topic: Salumi: The Craft of Italian Dry Curing, by Ruhlman and Polcyn  (Read 18949 times)

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Re: Salumi: The Craft of Italian Dry Curing, by Ruhlman and Polcyn
« Reply #25 on: November 01, 2012, 05:58:13 PM »
Yeah....now the HARD part......THE WAITING!!!

jon
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Offline dellavecchia

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Re: Salumi: The Craft of Italian Dry Curing, by Ruhlman and Polcyn
« Reply #26 on: November 01, 2012, 07:52:21 PM »
Bill - Do they give more instruction on building the curing chamber in the second book? Is that one you are using your own design? Looks fantastic. I tried the guanciale from the first book and it was a disaster (I think it was from the first book?).

John

Offline Bill/SFNM

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Re: Salumi: The Craft of Italian Dry Curing, by Ruhlman and Polcyn
« Reply #27 on: November 01, 2012, 09:06:10 PM »
Bill - Do they give more instruction on building the curing chamber in the second book? Is that one you are using your own design? Looks fantastic. I tried the guanciale from the first book and it was a disaster (I think it was from the first book?).

John

John,

No building instructions in the book. I'm using an old, tall wine fridge set to the desired temp. Unlike the smaller wine cooler I converted for fermenting and proofing bread, this one has no need for a heat source since the ambient temp in the garage is higher than the target temp. A little humidifier attached to a humidity control is the main addition. There is very small fan inside to circulate the air. There is no need for any form of dehumidification since the climate here is very dry. I leave the door about 1/8" open to keep the air fresh. The problem is that the garage now smells like a delicatessen, which is driving the dogs crazy.
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Re: Salumi: The Craft of Italian Dry Curing, by Ruhlman and Polcyn
« Reply #28 on: November 01, 2012, 09:19:42 PM »
John,

No building instructions in the book. I'm using an old, tall wine fridge set to the desired temp. Unlike the smaller wine cooler I converted for fermenting and proofing bread, this one has no need for a heat source since the ambient temp in the garage is higher than the target temp. A little humidifier attached to a humidity control is the main addition. There is very small fan inside to circulate the air. There is no need for any form of dehumidification since the climate here is very dry. I leave the door about 1/8" open to keep the air fresh. The problem is that the garage now smells like a delicatessen, which is driving the dogs crazy.

Hell with the dogs, it must drive YOU crazy too!!! :-D
ďThe two most important days in your life are the day you are born and the day you find out why.Ē            -Mark Twain

Offline Bill/SFNM

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Re: Salumi: The Craft of Italian Dry Curing, by Ruhlman and Polcyn
« Reply #29 on: November 26, 2012, 04:07:04 PM »
Pancetta tesa is done! Made bucatini all'amatriciana today. Different recipes using the pancetta on the menu the rest of the week.



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Re: Salumi: The Craft of Italian Dry Curing, by Ruhlman and Polcyn
« Reply #30 on: November 29, 2012, 10:45:18 PM »
Been meaning to respond to your post Bill....FREAKING AWESOME!!!!! I think we should have a separate "charcuterie" thread. I have 25 pounds of capicola seasoned pork shoulder rolling in the vacuum tumbler right now along with about 8 pounds of eye of round too. Will be hitting the smoker for a long, light smoke in the next day or 2. Looking forward to how the beef tastes seasoned that way. Also thinking of getting a small fridge with humidity control to do the long haul, dry aged stuff. Any suggestions on that throw them my way. Great job their brother!!!

jon
ďThe two most important days in your life are the day you are born and the day you find out why.Ē            -Mark Twain

Offline Bill/SFNM

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Re: Salumi: The Craft of Italian Dry Curing, by Ruhlman and Polcyn
« Reply #31 on: November 30, 2012, 08:29:40 AM »
Thanks, jon. Not sure about a separate thread. In one way it is an off-topic food, but in another important way for me, it is an important ingredient in my pizzas. Below are some quick shots of yesterday's bake using the pancetta. I made a "butter" by whipping together some of the pancetta and some ricotta cheese. Made a great stuffing for calzones and for a riff on focaccia di Recco - with tiny chewy bits of pork and partially rendered fat and gooey cheese and also some garlicky mushrooms. Tomorrow I'm planning on stuffing some of the pancetta/ricotta "butter" into some raviolis.

Regarding the curing chamber: temperature control should be the easy part (I aim for ~60F). Humidity control is going to have a lot to do with your ambient relative humidity. You may need a dehumidifier - I don't since it is so dry here.

Update on the salami: I've been tasting small pieces each week. It is almost done drying, but I am not impressed with the flavor yet. Good mold is starting cover the casing. This may take a few months.   
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Offline norma427

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Re: Salumi: The Craft of Italian Dry Curing, by Ruhlman and Polcyn
« Reply #32 on: November 30, 2012, 09:03:58 AM »
Bill,

I am always amazed at what lengths you go to when making your pizzas or toppings for your pizzas.   :chef:

Your pancetta looks mouth-watering delicious!  I wish there were a drool button for many things that you make.   :P

You sure are patient and willing to make the best pizzas and toppings.

Norma
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Offline Bill/SFNM

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Re: Salumi: The Craft of Italian Dry Curing, by Ruhlman and Polcyn
« Reply #33 on: November 30, 2012, 01:06:07 PM »
Latest installment in meals this week that use the pancetta: Pastiera Rustica di Tagliolini, a rich pasta casserole loaded with cheese, butter, milk, and dry-cured pork. I added some of the mushrooms left over from yesterday's pizzas.

Sometimes I use big words that I donít fully understand in an effort to make myself sound more photosynthesis. - @itjenlawrence


Offline Pete-zza

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Re: Salumi: The Craft of Italian Dry Curing, by Ruhlman and Polcyn
« Reply #34 on: November 30, 2012, 03:42:24 PM »
Bill,

Your Pastiera Rustica di Tagliolini is a thing of beauty. Is that angel hair pasta and, if so, did you make it yourself?

Peter

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Re: Salumi: The Craft of Italian Dry Curing, by Ruhlman and Polcyn
« Reply #35 on: November 30, 2012, 04:16:26 PM »
Looks great, almost like a Carbonara pasta, which I love!! I'll be making some pasta with this new batch of Capicola for sure. Do you have a recipe you would share with what you have there??

jon
ďThe two most important days in your life are the day you are born and the day you find out why.Ē            -Mark Twain

Offline Bill/SFNM

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Re: Salumi: The Craft of Italian Dry Curing, by Ruhlman and Polcyn
« Reply #36 on: November 30, 2012, 05:32:24 PM »
Is that angel hair pasta and, if so, did you make it yourself?
Thank you, Peter. This is what I used:
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Re: Salumi: The Craft of Italian Dry Curing, by Ruhlman and Polcyn
« Reply #37 on: November 30, 2012, 05:44:07 PM »
Looks great, almost like a Carbonara pasta, which I love!! I'll be making some pasta with this new batch of Capicola for sure. Do you have a recipe you would share with what you have there??

This recipe has quite a lot of milk in it, something a carbonara purist would find objectionable (the orthodox view is that cream is a crutch. I violate a few other carbonara prime directives in this dish). This is a baked dish based on a recipe in the book, Naples at Table, Cooking in Campania by Arthur Schwartz. I only referred to the recipe in the book to make sure I got the spelling right in the above post. Otherwise, I winged it today along these lines, measuring nothing:

1. Boil pasta just short of being done.
2. Drain pasta and toss in lots of butter.
3. Dump in some milk and mix frequently until most of the milk is absorbed by the pasta
4. Beat some eggs.
5. Grate lots of parm and pecorino into the eggs.
6. Grind lots of pepper into the eggs
7. Mix the egg/cheese mixture into the pasta.
8. Mix some diced provolone into the pasta.
9. Mix diced pancetta into the pasta.
10. Grease a large casserole dish with butter or lard
11. Bake until top is lightly browned.
12. Rest for a while.

Very easy. Profoundly satisfying.
Sometimes I use big words that I donít fully understand in an effort to make myself sound more photosynthesis. - @itjenlawrence

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Re: Salumi: The Craft of Italian Dry Curing, by Ruhlman and Polcyn
« Reply #38 on: November 30, 2012, 06:02:31 PM »
Thank you sir. Kind of like a baked Carbonara, sounds great!

jon
ďThe two most important days in your life are the day you are born and the day you find out why.Ē            -Mark Twain

Offline Bill/SFNM

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Re: Salumi: The Craft of Italian Dry Curing, by Ruhlman and Polcyn
« Reply #39 on: November 30, 2012, 06:07:50 PM »
Thank you sir. Kind of like a baked Carbonara, sounds great!

jon

BTW, the recipe in the book calls for half pancetta and half sopressata. I used all pancetta for obvious reasons.
Sometimes I use big words that I donít fully understand in an effort to make myself sound more photosynthesis. - @itjenlawrence

Offline Bill/SFNM

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Re: Salumi: The Craft of Italian Dry Curing, by Ruhlman and Polcyn
« Reply #40 on: December 02, 2012, 01:46:14 PM »
This is probably the last pancetta post for a while. Sliced some up, fried it like bacon, and used it on some burgers with Tartinish buns. Also sauteed mushroom and green chile.
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Offline jeff v

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Re: Salumi: The Craft of Italian Dry Curing, by Ruhlman and Polcyn
« Reply #41 on: December 02, 2012, 01:52:29 PM »
Looks really good Bill. I wonder if you would post any info abt the workflow and bake of the buns. I believe I've seen you mention Tartine crusty rolls/buns before but couldn't find it.
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Re: Salumi: The Craft of Italian Dry Curing, by Ruhlman and Polcyn
« Reply #42 on: December 02, 2012, 07:11:29 PM »
Thanks, Jeff. It's just my standard Tartine dough, formed into 130g buns for proofing. Brushed with butter before going in the oven (450F convection) and again after coming out. I use this size bun for 6 oz. patties. I proof 6 buns on a 1/4 size jelly roll pan. They come out squarish, so I form the patties into a similar size and shape.

Absolutely no question that the buns are the star of this dish. Also great for other kinds of sandwiches where you want a sturdy bun.

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Offline jeff v

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Re: Salumi: The Craft of Italian Dry Curing, by Ruhlman and Polcyn
« Reply #43 on: December 02, 2012, 09:33:38 PM »
Thanks Bill.

I'm looking forward to following this thread, so please don't forget us! I can also recommend this recipe for whipped lardo when yours is done in April. You would start at step 4.

http://issuu.com/spensermagazine/docs/spenser_magazine-issue_one/40?mode=mobile
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Offline Bill/SFNM

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Re: Salumi: The Craft of Italian Dry Curing, by Ruhlman and Polcyn
« Reply #44 on: December 12, 2012, 02:32:06 PM »
Still working on the pancetta. Made the best ravioli I have ever eaten today with whipped pancetta/ricotta filling enriched with some beaten egg. The first batch with a marinara sauce (photo below) was definitely overcooked - the filling got a little soggy. The sauce overpowered the delicate flavors of the filling. The second batch was cooked just right with a fluffy filling. Instead of the marinara, I just drizzled some olive oil/garlic over the ravioli and grated some pecorino. Yolk-rich pasta sheets from a French Laundry recipe.


Sometimes I use big words that I donít fully understand in an effort to make myself sound more photosynthesis. - @itjenlawrence

Offline dellavecchia

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Re: Salumi: The Craft of Italian Dry Curing, by Ruhlman and Polcyn
« Reply #45 on: December 15, 2012, 04:17:16 PM »
Yolk-rich pasta sheets from a French Laundry recipe.

Is that the Agnolotti recipe from French Laundry? I love that one. We make ravioli quite often, and when I have fresh eggs I always use a rediculous amount of yolks.

Really beautiful pancetta. If I had not failed miserably at my last guanciale attempt I would pick up this book. Can't wait to see the Lardo.

John
« Last Edit: December 15, 2012, 05:32:27 PM by dellavecchia »

Offline Bill/SFNM

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Re: Salumi: The Craft of Italian Dry Curing, by Ruhlman and Polcyn
« Reply #46 on: December 15, 2012, 05:31:24 PM »
Is that the Angnolotti recipe from French Laundry? I love that one.

Yes, John. It is this recipe:

http://www.epicurious.com/recipes/food/views/Pasta-Dough-for-Agnolotti-105858

Lardo still has about 4 months to go. I see it every time I open up the refrigerator and wonder whether, inside the black wrapping, the fat is developing into something amazing or whether it has been slowly putrefying.

Sometimes I use big words that I donít fully understand in an effort to make myself sound more photosynthesis. - @itjenlawrence

Offline jeff v

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Re: Salumi: The Craft of Italian Dry Curing, by Ruhlman and Polcyn
« Reply #47 on: December 15, 2012, 05:56:19 PM »

Lardo still has about 4 months to go. I see it every time I open up the refrigerator and wonder whether, inside the black wrapping, the fat is developing into something amazing or whether it has been slowly putrefying.

 :-D

I feel your pain, and share the anticipation!
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Offline Bill/SFNM

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Re: Salumi: The Craft of Italian Dry Curing, by Ruhlman and Polcyn
« Reply #48 on: December 17, 2012, 12:36:28 PM »
I wasn't going to post any more about the pancetta, but the bread I just made with it was too good not to share. Once again, I called on the pancetta whipped with ricotta cheese. After fermenting some Tartine dough, I studded a dough with many morsels of the whipped pancetta, formed into a baguette, proofed and baked. The entire loaf was redolent with the aroma of the pancetta spices. The little cheesy, chewy pork morsels were icing on the cake. Must be eaten warm since the cooled cheese was little rubbery.

 
Sometimes I use big words that I donít fully understand in an effort to make myself sound more photosynthesis. - @itjenlawrence

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Re: Salumi: The Craft of Italian Dry Curing, by Ruhlman and Polcyn
« Reply #49 on: December 17, 2012, 01:24:19 PM »
BEAUTIFUL.....I can imagine that cut into little crostini rounds and topped with all kinds of rich goodies!!!

jon
ďThe two most important days in your life are the day you are born and the day you find out why.Ē            -Mark Twain


 

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