Plausible explanation to: Why the Electrolux Assistent (DLX) kneads so well.....

[Henrik]

HI group,

I have worked with the Kenwood planetary mixer for years, and now the Assistent (as  the DLX is called here in Scandinavia) for a couple of months now, as I bought one after reading all the positive remarks about it in this group, and not least Varasano's comprehensive "walk through" at: http://www.think2020.com/jv/Dough.htm and http://www.think2020.com/jv/recipe.htm

I guess you have also had your thoughts wonder around the subject of how this machine works the dough so effectively and also gently, and I trust I have found an answer:

While the planetary mixer mainly compress the dough, the GLX mainly stretches the dough, and the DLX therefore also works so effectively while the mix is at a high hydration level; at this point the planetary mixer does not do anything but stir the mix. The DLX stretch the dough behind the roller, and also from the scraper toward the roller, and you frequently see that the dough panes in fine sheets during the processing, as it stretches toward the roller. However, the compression of the dough is very soft and not too significant. This also explains the low power but high performance of the DLX, while other machines put their energy in by compression of the highly viscous mass, not really working the dough to the extent of power used.

The stretching also mimic the hand kneading well, as the main focus is a stretch rather than a compression.
I have no experience with a fork mixer, which may also stretch the dough better than the planetary mixed does.

Please let me know if this idea comforts you!

But even if not....the DLX still works wonders!

Happy stretching!

Henrik

[scott r]

Henrik, this all makes a lot of sense.  It is nice to see your detailed explanation of why this mixer works so well.

On this forum I have often read about how commercial pizzerias have the advantage with their professional mixers.  I just spent some time in New York city and New Haven Connecticut trying dough made in standard Hobart mixers and nothing came close to the tenderness that I can achieve at home with my DLX.  I know that some of my success is because of the guidance of the many selfless people on this forum, but I have to believe that most of the professional pizzeria owners know all the little "tricks and secrets" as well.  I give most of the credit to my mixer.  Yes, I do have to do a little hand kneading at the end to get the last few % of hydration down in my dough when using the roller/scraper, but it is a small price to pay for such a wonderful result.  Most of the time I am making a recipe that uses a high hydration anyhow, so there is no need to handmix.

On another note, I have been fortunate enough to visit Scandinavia while touring with my band.  That area of the world is one of the most beautiful and unusual places I have ever travelled.  I was blown away by how well built and upscale everything was, and also by the unconventional selection of condiments for various foods.   After eating unusual foods for a few weeks going from country to country throughout Europe I was so excited to see a Pizza hut.  Scary I know.  Up until this point the only meal I had been able to find that was similar to being back home was at a Mc Donald's or Burger King.   I had tried pizza in a number of places that was just not right for one reason or another.  I walked in the front door of the Pizza Hut and to my suprise I was greeted by a man in a tuxedo, and a room full of beautiful hardwood tables adorned with white table cloths and fine silverware.  Now that was a fun way to eat Pizza Hut!

Henrik, I would love to hear about any of your creations, or the typical pizza styles of your country.  I will try not to be turned off even if they include tartar sauce or Russian dressing. (I am just kidding, but with the crazy stuff I saw I would not be surprised). 

[Henrik]

Hi Scott R,

Sorry to hear about your experience with strange foods in Scandinavia, but I can understand that quite a variety of foods here are an acquired taste.
From American colleagues, the main worry are the numerous uncooked fish dishes, such as the marinated herrings and gravad laks. If we go further north from Denmark, I am also intimidated by strange fish dishes, which I would not even touch with a pole.....among them is gravad shark in Iceland, for which season is up at Christmas time...and it is literally shark buried in the ground for a while before eaten.....and it looks like over mature banana, but surely smells of death.
A Swedish specialty is surstrømming...a Baltic herring in a can, which bulge under the gaseous pressure created by microbes in the can, hence a presentation which would lead right to the garbage can any where else than in Sweden. Be sure to open it with the wind blowing from you, and do not spill/spray any of the juices on skin and clothing!
Both dishes are an excellent excuse for a snaps, an aquavit, a strong distilled liquor made from grain or potatoes usually with a cumin flavor....but I surely do not need this excuse!

Returning to the subject of pizza, there is not such a thing as a Danish or Scandinavian version; most pizze are made in small take away joints, and vary dramatically in price and quality. The most prominent places have wood fired ovens, and it usually shows dedication.

My own pie creations have developed and improved over the last 10 years, starting with installation of a heavy refractory stone slab from a ceramic kiln in my electric oven, which heats to about 575 deg. F. I soon realized the importance of the dough to mature some days in the fridge....but things really took off when I found this group. A few things have been confirmed, and a lot learned. Originally I tried to mimic the thin crust Neapolitan style, which I would consider THE Italian pizza. However, pizza was developed in the US, and re-exported back to Europe...in many more shapes and creations which offer a lot of good. So lately, my pies have grown in thickness, and to the liking of my guests. I have ordered a new oven, the Rollergrill PZ330, look f.ex. at: http://www.alexanders-direct.co.uk/PZ330.html which I look forward to experiment with.

My dream is a wood fired oven, which will be part of the decisions for my next purchase of a house: The kitchen must include the space to build a Pompei style oven.

I only have poor pictures of late creations, but since you ask, I'll try include one: A  green pepper, mushroom, mozzarella, tomato and salami pie. An other favorite is anchovies with black olives, but also tuna and onion, taught to me by an experienced pizzaiolo I meet during a business trip to the Italian east cost near Rimini. The master was standing at the wood fired oven, and my Italian business contact made the interpretation as I tried to learn of the oven and his personal pizza favorite.

Thanks for your comments an interest Scott!

Henrik

[Henrik]

Here a picture to show the action, and how the mix is drawn to stretch on the left side of the roller, and the stringy texture from the dragging toward to roller from the scraper area.

The charge is 650g water and about 750 g flour at this stage, leading to a hydration level of approximately 85%.
The mix has autolysed for 10 minutes (@ hydration level of 100%), and is kneaded for about 5 minutes when the picture was taken; the flour has 13% protein.

[Henrik]

Here is the same batch with a lower hydration of about 75%.