Author Topic: Finally a Swedish neapolitan WFO underway (Read 6743 times)

fagilia · « **Reply #100 on:** February 19, 2013, 02:57:22 PM »

Ok ill go the video way from now on why not. Guess its also easier to tell if iam doing anything wrong at the same time

kiwipete · « **Reply #101 on:** February 19, 2013, 03:27:34 PM »

Quote from: fagilia on February 19, 2013, 02:55:49 PM

The biggest concern i have is to even out the brick courses of the dome close to the door so it becomes totally circular.
Now it is not circular close to the door as you can see in the picture.
I am thinking to even out this circle in to steps so after the second course is finished the cicle should be almost perfect.
Any ideas if this is a good plan?

That's how I would do it..

TXCraig1 · « **Reply #102 on:** February 19, 2013, 04:01:21 PM »

I'm curious why you didn't band it before building the dome?

Tscarborough · « **Reply #103 on:** February 19, 2013, 04:03:52 PM »

Or you could shave those brick over the door on the next course and be done with it. Now you should mind the joints, put the head joints in the center of the brick of the previous course (or as close as is possible without cutting of brick).

Tscarborough · « **Reply #104 on:** February 19, 2013, 04:08:50 PM »

Looking good, BTW.

TXCraig1 · « **Reply #105 on:** February 19, 2013, 04:31:33 PM »

Quote from: Tscarborough on February 19, 2013, 04:08:50 PM

Looking good, BTW.

+1

fagilia · « **Reply #106 on:** February 19, 2013, 05:04:39 PM »

Ok thanks tom now i understand what you mean.
Craig. I just couldnt get a hold of the right steel for this moment. It would slow the progress down to much to wait and i figured the sandform would keep the forces in place for the time being.
I will shave the bricks in esiest way i can. One or two courses depending of ease. Thanks

shuboyje · « **Reply #107 on:** February 19, 2013, 08:35:46 PM »

I did it the same way, I figured I didn't need any lateral reinforcement until the sand form came out since it was supporting the weight of the dome.

What is your plan for the triangular gaps that will form as you get further into the dome?

Tscarborough · « **Reply #108 on:** February 19, 2013, 09:04:27 PM »

I just watched the video, that was painful. Just do what he is doing at :20, i.e. fill it by scraping motion, not pushing it in. With the level of hydration you are using, a grout bag would also work.

fagilia · « **Reply #109 on:** February 20, 2013, 02:36:06 AM »

Hahaha i can just imagine your feelings Tom, when you saw that:)
My firend actually told me the same thing. He told me i looked like more like a dentist than a manson... Good for me he doesnt read this forum

Thats why movies are so good just keep the critisism coming guys, its the only way i can improve off course.

Half of the first course we used more firm mortar and the next half more wet. Does it make any difference. I think I read one comments of yours Tom saying that hydration level wasnt as important in mortar as in concrete? The question is if the mortar is to wet to be perfect, that i was using in the video?

fagilia · « **Reply #110 on:** February 20, 2013, 02:43:00 AM »

Thanks by the way Jeff now i feel more safe, but i will probably do the metal bands as soon as i can.

My plan when bigger triangular gaps occur is non existing...
But it makes sense in my head to cut the brick a little bit to make the triangles smaller at the same time, but still keep them rectangular, no angles or so?
How wide/thick should the maximum joints be from the inside of the dome? That would be the question.

satgan · « **Reply #111 on:** February 20, 2013, 06:30:12 AM »

fagilia have you seen this slide show

http://slice.seriouseats.com/archives/2010/05/donatella-arpaias-wood-fired-pizza-oven-built-by-stefano-ferrara-first-in-nyc-slideshow.html?ref=search#

Tscarborough · « **Reply #112 on:** February 20, 2013, 07:39:25 AM »

There is a way to butter the brick to be sure and fill the triangles that will be there (since you have no access to the inside until completed), but I do not know if words alone can describe it. If I get time I will try and draw a crude diagram. Drier is not better for mortar, but you don't want soup either. The mortar looked about right.

dirk3000 · « **Reply #113 on:** February 20, 2013, 08:22:25 AM »

Nice work man!

Good luck on bringing back the circle in the courses, I know it's very hard and if you don't correct it right, it will keep showing up in every course only bigger...

Btw, for what I can see here, I've built some ovens in almost just the same way you are doing now, and they still work beautiful.

But what's your mortar recipe? I didn't see you mentioned it, probably overlooked it

fagilia · « **Reply #114 on:** February 20, 2013, 09:26:05 AM »

ok, I think many here would appreciate it if you did Tom. Until then ill just try and do my best pushing it in there.
Yes i have seen the slideshow and now i did see he does not care to much about lining up the stones and i might cut the bricks a little earlier
than he SF is. I guess he knows exactly what he is doing by experience.

The mortar iam using is what most recommend from reading. its 3 part sand: 1 part hydrated lime: 1 part clay: 1 part portland.
To find the right lime and the right clay was my biggest challenge so far. US systems differ alot from ours.
I did not find refactory mortar that was good for bigger joints like the ones on my oven. I sure did try though.

fagilia · « **Reply #115 on:** February 20, 2013, 09:27:44 AM »

I will correct the bricks as perfect as i can from the start, good advice..

dirk3000 · « **Reply #116 on:** February 20, 2013, 09:51:59 AM »

Maybe in your country you should look for aluminium cement, that's the stuff refractory mortar is made of. It might also be available in art supply stores, since sculptors use it alot to make castings of their sculptures. You can mix it yourself with sand to make mortar.
This 3:1:1:1 is fine though.

shuboyje · « **Reply #117 on:** February 20, 2013, 10:07:24 AM »

I really like the Neapolitan method of dealing with the triangles because it allows you to fill them in while also building the dome at a much faster pace. Here in the US I couldn't find any refractory products designed to use as wet as you see Steffano applying his so I used a drier mix, but it still worked great.

Tscarborough · « **Reply #118 on:** February 20, 2013, 10:24:49 AM »

I can't draw for crap, so I took a picture. Obviously, the brick is pictured upside down.

fagilia · « **Reply #119 on:** February 20, 2013, 03:15:26 PM »

Thats kind of how i did it to, just that I did slide the brick into place and some mortar was left in the higher part of the brick. Now i more squised and pushed them into place and it worked perfect. There was small amounts ofmortar coming out on all sides.
By the way i did made the circle perfect on the first course, it made sense not to do the same trouble twice:)