Just so I'm clear, do a lot of the American Neapolitan pizzerie ball straight from the mixer, or do they allow the dough a 1 - 2h riposo while in bulk before doing so, refrigerated or otherwise?
It is difficult to say how many pizza operators who specialize in the Neapolitan style use cold fermentation, simply because they rarely publish the specific details of their dough formulations and preparation and management. However, on the forum, one of the earliest discussions of the use of cold fermentation for the Neapolitan style was way back in 2005 in the A16 thread at http://www.pizzamaking.com/forum/index.php/topic,1298.msg11672.html#msg11672
. And if you look at the very first post in that thread, you will see that the dough was given a one-hour rest at room temperature before being prepared for refrigeration. One dough formulation that came out of that thread and generated a lot of interest was the pieguy formulation at Reply 58 at http://www.pizzamaking.com/forum/index.php/topic,1298.msg12512.html#msg12512
. Again, the instructions for that dough formulation called for proofing the dough at room temperature before going into the cooler. The A16 thread attracted a lot of members and users, and was early in addressing cold fermentation of Neapolitan style doughs, so it is quite possible that that thread influenced a lot of people who went on to use cold fermentation of Neapolitan style doughs, including professionally. Even with little recent activity, the A16 thread has almost 130,000 page views. That makes that thread the eleventh most popular thread on the forum as measured by page views.
You will also see that another forum member, who went by the handle of Mo, was also interested in the use of cold fermentation for the Neapolitan style, as he discussed in the thread at http://www.pizzamaking.com/forum/index.php/topic,8104.msg69675.html#msg69675
. Mo also let the dough rest at room temperature before going into the cooler. Mo eventually went on to open up his own pizzeria in Iowa (http://vesuvius-wfp.com/Vesuvius_Wood-Fired_Pizza/Promise.html
) but I don't know if he used cold fermentation. He also started playing around with natural leavens but I don't know if he incorporated them into his dough making.
There have been several other members who have experimented with cold fermented versions of the Neapolitan dough. One member who posts frequently on the use of cold fermentation in a professional setting is thezaman, better known as Larry. As noted in Reply 6 at http://www.pizzamaking.com/forum/index.php/topic,15639.msg153968.html#msg153968
, Larry mentions using a two-hour bulk rise before refrigerating. See, also, Reply 1 at http://www.pizzamaking.com/forum/index.php/topic,14613.msg145574.html#msg145574
As you can see from the above examples, the term riposo
was not used. As you no doubt know, Marco (pizzanapoletana) was a big advocate of the use of riposo
, as he so noted in Reply 59 at http://www.pizzamaking.com/forum/index.php/topic,1415.msg15195/topicseen.html#msg15195
. However, what I found amusing was that Marco was very specific as to the duration of the riposo
. So, when he said 15-20 minutes, he apparently meant 15-20 minutes, not 10 minutes or 40 minutes, as he noted in Reply 9 at http://www.pizzamaking.com/forum/index.php/topic,3873.msg32478/topicseen.html#msg32478] [url]http://www.pizzamaking.com/forum/index.php/topic,3873.msg32478/topicseen.html#msg32478
Once you get out of the Neapolitan realm, the most common practice with cold fermented doughs in a professional setting is to forgo the use of a formal rest period before refrigerating. I say "formal" rest period because the dough gets some rest as the bulk dough is divided, scaled and rounded. The time to perform these steps is typically around 20 minutes if done by hand. However, there are some pizza operators who do intentionally let the bulk dough rest for a specified period before dividing, scaling and rounding. This is usually done to allow the dough to kick start the dough from a fermentation standpoint and to fit a specific fermentation window for the dough so that it is ready to be used when needed the next day.