Author Topic: The May 2013 Saveur is Worth a Look  (Read 3040 times)

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Offline BobBill

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The May 2013 Saveur is Worth a Look
« on: April 19, 2013, 11:47:53 AM »
For za lovers, particularly Neapolitan pies.
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Offline corkd

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Re: The May 2013 Saveur is Worth a Look
« Reply #1 on: April 19, 2013, 02:18:20 PM »
yes, it's a great issue i agree. purists on this forum will no doubt notice that the NP dough recipe Saveur included includes oil & sugar, but still great photos & text...

Offline dmcavanagh

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Re: The May 2013 Saveur is Worth a Look
« Reply #2 on: April 19, 2013, 03:24:18 PM »
I liked the canned tomato review near the back of the mag, some good info on canned tomatoes, some of which I have never seen in my locale, some are new to the market. They also listed some mozzarellas which they liked, again, some not always available to me.

Offline BobBill

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Re: The May 2013 Saveur is Worth a Look
« Reply #3 on: April 21, 2013, 10:14:08 AM »
Four things in the item caught my eye...Semolina use, the 48 hour rise, (the added oil etc too) and simple tomato use and using broiler to get super hot stone. I have always been reluctant to heat oven that high, but might try it.

A few years ago, I mixed a dough not using OO (sinner that I am) and had to leave it in "Fridge" for two days...was the best dough I ever made and try to do same now.

I used to labor over the sauce also, letting it simmer for hours (it doubles as pasta sauce with some added sugar) but long ago began to use the very spendy imported Italian San Marzano tomatoes - sliced and well drained over bowl for later breakfast juice -  adding oreg, fennel etc to pie before baking. Pies are well received...like there is a bad pie?

Anyway, going to try recipe exactly as noted and see.

I always give a recipe a go, to see if it does what it should, as some do not.

Back in 97 I began doing brisket in the oven and tried a recipe in "Cooks," using temps as guide and more to get a tender product...pure stupid waste of time, the temps etc and all the measuring...you braise it until it goes tender...duh!

Same with pies. Not rocket science...simple is best and the Saveur piece for once was less about the article's writer and more about the vittles. It was simple enough for this old cat to give it a go...always learning new stuff.

FWIW.
« Last Edit: April 21, 2013, 02:18:45 PM by BobBill »
Welcome to our round playground called Earth
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All you gotta know - JD Winona

Offline BobBill

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Re: The May 2013 Saveur is Worth a Look
« Reply #4 on: April 22, 2013, 12:32:53 PM »
I liked the canned tomato review near the back of the mag, some good info on canned tomatoes, some of which I have never seen in my locale, some are new to the market. They also listed some mozzarellas which they liked, again, some not always available to me.

Interesting comment. I buy Pastore, not on list, but good and spendy too. So, I have thought about buying more generic even American whole Italian tomatoes and adding basil, to see if it works...the price difference might be worth the effort...
Welcome to our round playground called Earth
Where the greatest cause of death is birth! Lucas, Winona
All you gotta know - JD Winona

Offline TXCraig1

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Re: The May 2013 Saveur is Worth a Look
« Reply #5 on: April 22, 2013, 12:54:53 PM »
Interesting comment. I buy Pastore, not on list, but good and spendy too. So, I have thought about buying more generic even American whole Italian tomatoes and adding basil, to see if it works...the price difference might be worth the effort...

IMO, there is precious little more worthless than these lists be it tomatoes, mozzarella, or pizzerias. For one thing they are subjective, and who knows if the tasters tastes match yours, and second, the tasters would need to try a true random sampling for the results to have any validity. Simply tasting one or even a couple cans literally has zero value.
I love pigs. They convert vegetables into bacon.

Offline BobBill

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Re: The May 2013 Saveur is Worth a Look
« Reply #6 on: April 22, 2013, 01:15:11 PM »
IMO, there is precious little more worthless than these lists be it tomatoes, mozzarella, or pizzerias. For one thing they are subjective, and who knows if the tasters tastes match yours, and second, the tasters would need to try a true random sampling for the results to have any validity. Simply tasting one or even a couple cans literally has zero value.

I cannot disagree with your assessment...why I mostly go my own way, as you noted.
Welcome to our round playground called Earth
Where the greatest cause of death is birth! Lucas, Winona
All you gotta know - JD Winona

Offline dmcavanagh

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Re: The May 2013 Saveur is Worth a Look
« Reply #7 on: April 22, 2013, 06:33:34 PM »
I like to check out these lists just to see what is out their and to get an idea of what some others think of some of these products. I have my own favorites which I buy faithfully, but if you never try something new, you may never know what you're missing. Some people get in a rut of buying the same thing all the time and then they never know just how they stack up against other products. In the tomato world, crops change constantly and so does ownership of a lot of these canning companies.

Offline TXCraig1

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Re: The May 2013 Saveur is Worth a Look
« Reply #8 on: April 22, 2013, 07:12:22 PM »
I like to check out these lists just to see what is out their and to get an idea of what some others think of some of these products. I have my own favorites which I buy faithfully, but if you never try something new, you may never know what you're missing. Some people get in a rut of buying the same thing all the time and then they never know just how they stack up against other products. In the tomato world, crops change constantly and so does ownership of a lot of these canning companies.

Don't get me wrong. I'm not saying don't try something new. For sure, try new things. I'm saying don't make the decision to buy or not buy something based on a list.

I love pigs. They convert vegetables into bacon.

Offline BobBill

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Re: The May 2013 Saveur is Worth a Look
« Reply #9 on: April 22, 2013, 07:29:24 PM »
Don't get me wrong. I'm not saying don't try something new. For sure, try new things. I'm saying don't make the decision to buy or not buy something based on a list.

Aye Mr. C, excellent view...too bad so many (of us) do not think that way! I'd say...Come over anytime, I will make yo zas and give you beers and exchange thoughts...:] Slainte!
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Offline jeff v

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Re: The May 2013 Saveur is Worth a Look
« Reply #10 on: May 02, 2013, 04:01:37 PM »
Roberto Caporuscio made a video for this issue too.
<a href="http://youtu.be/HguSI0tDlVA" target="_blank" class="aeva_link bbc_link new_win">http://youtu.be/HguSI0tDlVA</a>

Offline BobBill

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Re: The May 2013 Saveur is Worth a Look
« Reply #11 on: May 02, 2013, 06:41:55 PM »
Outstanding, Jeff. Much thanks.
Welcome to our round playground called Earth
Where the greatest cause of death is birth! Lucas, Winona
All you gotta know - JD Winona

Offline corkd

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Re: The May 2013 Saveur is Worth a Look
« Reply #12 on: May 04, 2013, 09:21:36 AM »
Great video. This, along with spending a little time with Giuliano Adriani, has taught me to handle my dough more gently-- huge difference...

Clay

Offline jeff v

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Re: The May 2013 Saveur is Worth a Look
« Reply #13 on: May 04, 2013, 09:53:55 AM »
to handle my dough more gently-- huge difference...

Shhh...keep that a secret. :D Dough pounding and manhandling literally makes me cringe nowadays.

Offline TXCraig1

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Re: The May 2013 Saveur is Worth a Look
« Reply #14 on: May 04, 2013, 11:26:13 AM »
Shhh...keep that a secret. :D Dough pounding and manhandling literally makes me cringe nowadays.

How long have I been preaching that here?

Remember my old signature: "Slap for show, gentle for great dough."
I love pigs. They convert vegetables into bacon.

Offline BobBill

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Re: The May 2013 Saveur is Worth a Look
« Reply #15 on: May 04, 2013, 01:25:42 PM »
I do agree, but the gentle part seems not to be part of the recipe in the Saveur version...the mix is for 8 minutes, as I recall. Maybe the 48-hour rise makes a diff. I have yet to try, but always do the recipe as I find it first, figuring or hoping the person who wrote it did not forget anything or the maker knew his stuff.

I will report what happens. Yes gentle is important...
Welcome to our round playground called Earth
Where the greatest cause of death is birth! Lucas, Winona
All you gotta know - JD Winona

Offline TXCraig1

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Re: The May 2013 Saveur is Worth a Look
« Reply #16 on: May 04, 2013, 01:41:27 PM »
Gentle in the opening of the dough ball. Not so much in making the dough.
I love pigs. They convert vegetables into bacon.

Offline BobBill

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Re: The May 2013 Saveur is Worth a Look
« Reply #17 on: May 04, 2013, 02:22:53 PM »
Can you elucidate?  I flop in flour toss, and dust with semolina.
Welcome to our round playground called Earth
Where the greatest cause of death is birth! Lucas, Winona
All you gotta know - JD Winona

Offline TXCraig1

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Re: The May 2013 Saveur is Worth a Look
« Reply #18 on: May 04, 2013, 02:50:36 PM »
No tossing, no flipping around wildly, and for goodness sake, no slapping. The dough has to be right for this. If your dough fights you, this won't work, but that's a different matter.

The dough ball goes into the flour top down. Flip it and take it out of the flour. The top is now up on the work surface. Look at the underside of your hand - your fingers have three segments. With your fingers extended as far out and up as possible - so that your fingers have an upward bend, press your fingers into the dough so that the middle segment of your middle finger is the first contact point. With a tiny bit of rocking motion, roll your hand back towards you just a little pressing the dough slightly towards you. Your fingertips should never touch the dough. Using as light a pressure as possible, start inside of the cornice by about and work from top to bottom as described above protecting and forming the cornice at the top and the bottom. Flip the dough and turn 90 degrees as you set it down. What was the left and right sides are now the top and bottom. Repeat the process. You should now have a cornice all the way around. Protect the cornice. Flip the dough again so that the top is back facing up. Use your fingers the same way to spread the dough a little more. It's OK to gently tug on the edges to stretch and round out the skin. If needed, place the skin over your knuckles and turn it 360 degrees pulling slightly apart with your hands as you go around but mostly let gravity work. If you do this, be careful as you can quickly thin out the enter with a supple dough. When you finish be sure you end up with the top of the dough facing up.

Remember that sliding the dough onto the peel and/or stretching the edge on the peel will also increase the diameter, so you don't need to open the skin to the full final diameter. Stretching to the final diameter on the peel has two additional benefits, 1) it does not thin out the center of the dough, and 2) you get to fix the shape so it goes in to the oven round - or oval as needed - the steep launch angle of a short peel into a home oven tends to deliver a round pie onto the stone round. The shallow angle of a long handle launching  pie deep into a WFO will elongate the pie along the axis of the direction the peel is pulled out from under it. In this case, a slightly oval pie with the long axis perpendicular to the handle of the peel will result in a round pie on the floor.

You spend days developing the structure in the dough. Use gentle pressure to protect your work. Roberto put his hands on mine to show me the pressure, and it's not much more than the weight of your hands. The rocking motion does much of the work.
I love pigs. They convert vegetables into bacon.

Offline jeff v

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Re: The May 2013 Saveur is Worth a Look
« Reply #19 on: May 04, 2013, 09:25:18 PM »
How long have I been preaching that here?

Remember my old signature: "Slap for show, gentle for great dough."

And I'm glad you changed it... :-D

I'm kidding about the secret part. I noticed bread bakers being much more gentle w their dough some years ago but it still seems to be a "secret" in the pizza world. Plus the spectacle of dough pounding and tossing help keep it that way I guess.


 

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