Author Topic: Pizza in Italy - (Da Michele, Di Matteo, Trianon, Gino Sobillo, Bonci, Roscioli)  (Read 2740 times)

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Offline derricktung

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Mods, please feel free to move this to a more appropriate forum if necessary... I didn't quite know where this fit, so I stuck it here.

I wanted to share some pics and videos of the pizza aspects of my trip to Europe!  I had 2 days in Naples, and 4 days in Rome, so I was able to convince my wife to stick with me through my pizza crazed walks to try some of the places folks have been talking about... I'll add the pictures for now, and will try to find time to add the video links when I can get them uploaded to Youtube...

We started out arriving in Naples on a weekday evening, and after settling into the hotel, headed straight to Michele for our first pizzas.  These pizzas were the softest crusts ever, with such a soupy middle, you couldn't lift it up to eat if you want to... Phenomenal pizza, and the interesting piece was that it took then anywhere between 35-40 seconds in the oven (I timed it 5 times).  So soft, very irregular, very tasty.  Both this pizzas are doppio.

The next day, we hit up Mateo for a late lunch and added some variety.  We ordered up a margherita, and a diavolo which was quite spicy.  Not sure how long their pizza took in the oven, as the serving area was upstairs and the oven was downstairs in tight quarters... the crust was chewy, tot he point where at the end of our meal, my jaw was feeling a little bit achy... (this is how I judge how soft crust is at pizza places... how does it impact my early TMJ).  However, the one of the best bites we had all trip was the fried zucchini flower.  Seriously phenomenal... we had it fresh since they were just putting a batch in, which likely helped make it taste so good.  Be back in a bit, breakiny for lunch...


Offline derricktung

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After our early dinner/late lunch at Di Mateo, we headed to Gino Sorbillo to check out what the fuss was about.  Getting full, we ordered only one pizza, a formaggio.  Sorbillo's had a softer crust than Di Mateo, but not as soft as da Michele either... service was fast, and they were cleaning the table while we were still sitting there in a rush to get us out... (maybe because we only ordered one pizza for the two of us?)  A bit rude by American standards, hard to say for Italian standards.  The pizza itself was quite good, and their oven time was floating around 1:45 per pizza.

The next day, we left Naples for Rome, so before we left, based on some recommendations, we went to Trianon.  Ordered up a single pie (forget what it was, but the pics show sausage, however I don't believe it was a diavolo) took some video of them making the pie, and settled down to eat it.  This was actually our favorite one out of the four places we went for Neapolitan pizza... the crust was barely firm enough to stand up on it's own, the corncione had a little bit of a chew to it, yielding to a very soft interior, and my jaw didn't hurt at all by the end of a pizza.  For us, this was the most well balanced rust we had in Naples.  About 1:40 per pizza I believe... I timed it once, and also have a recording which I'll post later which focuses on the slapping technique to open the dough mostly, but captures the entry of a few pizzas and the exit of the first one that goes in.

I decided I wanted to end on Da Michele one last time before leaving, to really see if there was a difference in separate days... after a LONG wait this time (both in line to sit, and while seated since the guy essentially forgot to put our order in multiple times... he was controlling the line at the door as well), we got another doppio.  (No pics).  Still phenomenal, but for our own personal preference, not the best in Naples.  Here's how we ranked them:

Trianon (just stiff enough crust without having to chew too much)
Da Michele (super soft crust, great flavors, so soupy int he middle that you can't hold it up... FAST cook time)
Gino Sorbillo (no jaw issues, good crust, rushed out of the restaurant by staff though)
Di Mateo (crust was soft, but tough enough to make my jaw hurt post pizza... BIG redeeming factor is their friggatore, as their zucchini blossoms are amazing)

In Rome, we made our way the next day to Antico Forno Roscioli to check out what the fuss was about there.  Huge 4 ft long "pizzas" were being made in their ovens, which they cut based on the size you wanted, weighed it out, reheated, and served up.  (I believe this is Roman style pie?)  We tried a sampling of various toppings, but our new found favorite was the potato pie... scalloped potatoes with cheese melted on.  The key for us was the contrast from the soft potato to the crisp bottom of the pizza, and the soft dough inbetween providing a nice transition between the two different textures (so really three textures).  Phenomenal new experience.

« Last Edit: October 10, 2013, 02:27:32 PM by derricktung »

Offline derricktung

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Finally, the next day, after a long walk through the Vatican, we walked a few miles to Bonci/Pizzarium to check out what many were claiming to be the most innovative in Roman pizza.  Similar to Roscioli, you let them know what you wanted and selected from multiple topping types.  They, however, focused nearly strictly on Roman pizza (Roscioli does other baked goods, wines, and meats/cheese/veggies at a deli like counter) but had a decent friggatore selection as well. 

We tried a bunch of different pizzas, with two that really stood out:

1.  Potato pizza - their pizza was more chopped/mashed instead of scalloped like Roscioli, however they seem to add some butter as well which really brings an addictive flavor to the pie.  (Had a Paula Deen moment there...)

2.  Pumpkin pizza - topped with brocolli, they used a pumpkin spread as the base... not sure if it was the particular batch of bread, or whether it was the pumpkin spread, but the inside dough was incredibly soft against the crisp bottom, and the well cooked brocolli and other fresh herbs really made this nearly as good as the potato pizza here.. but not quite.

Super friendly staff, very patient in explaining every pizza there and making recommendations...

As a side note, both Pizzarium and Roscioli are FAAARR smaller than I imagined they would be... it's strange how you read about a place form a per-conceived notion of what your experience will be like, only to be very surprised when you arrive.  The food was spectacular, it's just the store front is really tiny when I expected a more spacious environment...


Offline Johnny the Gent

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Thanks for sharing your gastronomical experience with us. Love the description of the Da Michelle pie.
Il miglior fabbro

Offline RamirOk

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Great pics and great descriptions still I think you miss the chance to taste the pizza bianca at forno campo de fiori or even the bianca in Roscioli is pretty good, also the rosa in pizzarium is awesome and yes, I was also impress by the size of Pizzarium and Roscioli.

Thanks for sharing.

Offline derricktung

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A couple videos -

Antico Forno Roscioli :
<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oQjUxXcxmcw" target="_blank" class="aeva_link bbc_link new_win">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oQjUxXcxmcw</a>


Trianon: 
<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gO5fuz7PSW8" target="_blank" class="aeva_link bbc_link new_win">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gO5fuz7PSW8</a>



Offline FocusHearth

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We're just back from Napoli as well.  Hit Starita, da Michele, Gino Sorbillo.  On our last visit we had hit Trianon.  I'd have to agree with the above.  Though for our tastes, da Michele came in above Trianon (based on memory).  I was disappointed this trip at Sorbillo.  Seems to be a little inconsistent.  Starita is #3 on our list.

We really want to hit Pizzeria La Notizia, but it's on the other side of Napoli.  Next visit.

I was pretty blown away by Pizzarium in Roma.  We ate there multiple times.  I too was shocked by just how small it was.  Their own cured meats were outrageous.  It was really cool eating slices and drinking on the sidewalk out front.  No indoor seating.

Offline derricktung

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We're just back from Napoli as well.  Hit Starita, da Michele, Gino Sorbillo.  On our last visit we had hit Trianon.  I'd have to agree with the above.  Though for our tastes, da Michele came in above Trianon (based on memory).  I was disappointed this trip at Sorbillo.  Seems to be a little inconsistent.  Starita is #3 on our list.

We really want to hit Pizzeria La Notizia, but it's on the other side of Napoli.  Next visit.

I was pretty blown away by Pizzarium in Roma.  We ate there multiple times.  I too was shocked by just how small it was.  Their own cured meats were outrageous.  It was really cool eating slices and drinking on the sidewalk out front.  No indoor seating.

I wish I could've made it to Starita... it was just too out of the way for us while we were in Naples (we were on the south east side of the city near the train station) and after 7 pizzas in 48 hours, I don't think I could've convinced the wife to go for one more.

Like you said, wasn't that impressed with Sorbillo or Mateo (thought Mateo has some great fried goods).  Do you know if the two Sorbillos on the same block are related?  It's interesting that they're so close to each other and share the same name, but completely different environments...

Agreed around Pizzarium.  We finished our pieces, and actually went back to get a second helping of the potato pie... which they sold out of.  So we got some pumpkin/cauliflower, which was excellent... and then they had potato pie back again!  So tempted to order another serving, but we decided that for the sake of our extended guts, it was probably a good idea just to walk away instead.  =) 
« Last Edit: October 22, 2013, 10:51:43 AM by derricktung »

Offline FocusHearth

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We like deMatteo as well.  It was dead empty when we were there last, and the pies were excellent.

I also want to hit Lombardi at their new location on SpaccaNapoli.  I walked down to their old spot on our last trip(beyond the museum), but it was very very closed.

Offline FocusHearth

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Pizzarium was great with the scissors and pie/kg pricing.  I think our favorite was the cured rabbit.