Affirmative on the PMs and US. I've posted another link about a simple mod to the oven that requires almost no work. I'm also posting some info here before the PMs so other users may see.
These clamshell style ovens use a simple bi-metal thermostat for temperature control. This works by having two different metals connected to each other. As the metals heat up they expand at different rates and cause the bi-metal to bend. When you turn the knob it closes the circuit and turns on the heating elements. When the bi-metal bends enough (heats up) the circuit opens and the elements turn off. Turning the knob further tightens the connection between the contacts, meaning more bend (higher heat) is needed to break the circuit. The heating elements themselves, in this circuit, have only a binary state, on or off. When they're on they're heating up to their max output until the heat travels to thermostat and bends the bi-metal.
The simplest mod, posted at http://www.pizzamaking.com/forum/index.php?topic=5980.0
simply bends the mechanical governor/limiter out of the way so you can tighten the contacts connection even more, just by turning the knob further than you could before, meaning the elements don't turn off until even higher heat.
The mods posted at http://www.pizzamaking.com/forum/index.php/topic,19732.0.html
are a bit more complicated. Here the ovens have been dismantled and reassembled in order to install a secondary heating element in the top of the clamshell. The limiter mod is also used here... in my case, I actually moved the thermostat so it's not in the oven case and also delimited it.
I ordered my new wave stone bake pizza oven from Walmart, then I ordered a Welbilt Pizza Plus oven from eBay (all of these clamshell style ovens are basically identical... some differences with element shapes and wattages. There are some other clamshell ovens on the market, make sure you're buying one where you can actually see the element.) I disassembled both ovens to remove the heating elements. There are two element shapes these ovens had. The walmart used a V or pacman shape, the welbilt used an O or circle shape. Because I knew my oven was going to get hot (900F) i removed all the wiring so i could limit how much wire would actually be near the hottest part of the oven. To do this I needed to order some crimp cap nylon connectors so I could reconnect the wires once I'd removed them from the oven. (they come with crimp cap connections, but are threaded through the oven and cant be removed while fully connected) I also detached the thermostat to remove it. These steps were done on both ovens. The ovens were fully, 100% disassembled, though I'm not sure that much was necessary.
I then rebuilt into the new wave oven (it looked nicer, black/gray finish). I attached both O-shape elements to the top of the oven (some drilling may be required to put the element connections through the inner metal dome). I used the anchors from the original top element to screw the element in to the inner dome, then used stainless steel wire to tie the second element to the anchored element in a number of places. I then rewired/reconnected these two elements in the exact same fashion that was used originally for the top and bottom elements (make sure to label your wires before you disconnect them for easy re-wiring). Only the element connecting wires are inside the oven, they thread out to the thermostat through the hole where the knob used to come out of.
I did very similar steps for the bottom half, but had to drill a hole to thread the element connecting wires through. I also only used one element on the bottom. This wiring took some thought and trial and error to wire correctly. (to test that I'd wired correctly I used the GFCI outlet in my kitchen so I wouldn't trip a whole breaker)
Now to operate my oven I have two power cords, one for the top elements and one for the bottom element. I also have a thermostat for each half, meaning I can turn my bottom element off and still have the top elements on.