Author Topic: Napule'06  (Read 4112 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline David

  • Registered User
  • Posts: 966
  • What’s So Funny ‘Bout Pizza Love and Understanding
Napule'06
« on: September 18, 2006, 06:35:49 PM »
Pizzafest...
If you're looking for a date... go to the Supermarket.If you're looking for a wife....go to the Farmers market


Offline David

  • Registered User
  • Posts: 966
  • What’s So Funny ‘Bout Pizza Love and Understanding
Re: Napule'06
« Reply #1 on: September 18, 2006, 06:49:09 PM »
Just returned from a hectic few days in Napoli that just so happened to coincide with a Pizza festival.Mmmmmmmmmm.
Took a flight to Rome and jumped on the very efficient (300kph) Eurostar to Napoli for lunchtime.Headed right to my hotel for a couple of hours rest before heading out for a leisurely 10 min. stroll to the festival site.This is an evening only annual event where about twenty something local Pizza makers set up shop and compete for the attention of the local cognoscenti.If there is one place in the world that the competition is fierce for pizza,it's rightfully  here at the birthplace, Napule.For the nominal entrance fee of about 7 euro you get to indulge in choice of any pizza /beer /coffee/limoncello combo that you desire - now this is what I call fast food !Greater value for under $10 bucks I've yet to find..........Anywhere.
This is my first time back in Naples in nearly 30 years,so it was particularly nice to stumble into this clearly family friendly event,with many strollers and happy faces evident.
About 23 portable ovens (Acunto) are set up around the perimeter of the arena, all with an equal playing field.The setting is outdoors and surrounds illuminated fountains with ample room to relax a enjoy the atmosphere.There is a large stage area set up as well as strolling musicians adding their spaccanapoli style influence to the aura.
I circled like a Hawk, numerous times,before deciding upon where to take my first actual Neapolitan is oh so many years.I settled upon La Collina.It was a difficult choice,but they had the best looking pizza and the best looking crowd ! I wasn't disappointed.Having said that,I probably wouldn't have been that disappointed with any of them really.Unfortunately I had got extremely ill the minute I stepped of my flight in Rome,so didn't have the stomach to sample anymore,but I had the good fortune to know that I had a few more days ahead of me,and that the "Best of the Best" were not actually at this event.I had a Palm Pilot full of names and addresses,and I know that I wasn't even going to scratch the surface this week.
To be honest I had expected a bigger representation from the industry such as Oven makers / Flour Mills / Cheese Makers etc.but I guess that this is just not that type of event?I didn't notice many forein accents in the croud with the exception of a number of Japanese visitors,though that didn't surprise me.
If you're looking for a date... go to the Supermarket.If you're looking for a wife....go to the Farmers market

Offline David

  • Registered User
  • Posts: 966
  • What’s So Funny ‘Bout Pizza Love and Understanding
Re: Napule'06
« Reply #2 on: September 18, 2006, 06:51:00 PM »
nice setting.........
If you're looking for a date... go to the Supermarket.If you're looking for a wife....go to the Farmers market

Offline David

  • Registered User
  • Posts: 966
  • What’s So Funny ‘Bout Pizza Love and Understanding
Re: Napule'06
« Reply #3 on: September 18, 2006, 06:54:03 PM »
Beautiful surroundings..........
If you're looking for a date... go to the Supermarket.If you're looking for a wife....go to the Farmers market

Offline David

  • Registered User
  • Posts: 966
  • What’s So Funny ‘Bout Pizza Love and Understanding
Re: Napule'06
« Reply #4 on: September 18, 2006, 07:11:39 PM »
The next morning I headed up to the area known as Vomero.Set up on the hillside it was sure to offer a decent view I thought and i could also figure out just where the cellebrated Pizzeria Goriza was located.I had got up around 6am,so got up there around 8am.I always enjoy the early mornings in foreign Cities as you can watch them come to life,and this was no exception.By luck and chance I walked past sthe entrance to some gardens and a villa named "Floridiana".Unfortunately, usually when i'm in a foreign city alone,I avoid the parks as they are often a magnet for either junkies or gypsies.Sad but true.....However I saw a few genteel grandmothers pushing strollers as the park opened,so i decided to venture in.WOW...This place was an absolute Oasis of tranquility and peace amidst the chaos of Naples!It offers the most serene panorama over Mergelina  and the Bay of Naples that I took a sandwhich and coffee and enjoyed the peace for at least a couple of hours.If any of you should visit Naples,go here.
Gorizia is just a short stroll away and I was way too early for lunch so I decided to head down toward DaMichelle and the university area.
If you're looking for a date... go to the Supermarket.If you're looking for a wife....go to the Farmers market

Offline lilbuddypizza

  • Registered User
  • Posts: 353
  • Location: Chicago
  • Cheesy dude
Re: Napule'06
« Reply #5 on: September 18, 2006, 07:24:44 PM »
Very nice!
I got to get to Italy some day.

Offline David

  • Registered User
  • Posts: 966
  • What’s So Funny ‘Bout Pizza Love and Understanding
Re: Napule'06
« Reply #6 on: September 18, 2006, 07:41:23 PM »
when I travel I prefer to wander around rather than follow any strict itinerary as i always find that opens up more interesting oppertunities.As it turned out I headed through the doors of Del Presidente around 11.30 berfore I got as far as DaMichelle.I recognised the oven ahead of me from Ron's posts previously I think,and there to my right was a big 'braccia tuffante' double arm mixer.I entered the deceptively small dining room at the back and was greeted by the staff who were all sat enjoying an early lunch of what else but pizza.However i wasn't the first to interupt them as ther was one other solo patron sat salivating.Within minutes my Margerita and Fanta had arrived.This one was HEAVY on the Oil .Not that i'm complaining,it just was.The Cheese here was very strong and much more so than any Buffala that i had tasted before.I believe they have changed from Caputo to San Felice here,and the texture really did remind me of that slightly leathery feel I found at Luzzo's a week or so ago.A good start to the day.
« Last Edit: September 18, 2006, 07:43:25 PM by David »
If you're looking for a date... go to the Supermarket.If you're looking for a wife....go to the Farmers market

Offline David

  • Registered User
  • Posts: 966
  • What’s So Funny ‘Bout Pizza Love and Understanding
Re: Napule'06
« Reply #7 on: September 18, 2006, 07:57:15 PM »
Walking around Naples is a never ending assault on your senses,and you never quite know what you are going to come across.Unfortunately I'm quite a bit older than the last time I was here and a little more cautious.Gone are the days when every back alley was a welcome invitation to reality.Too often when you walk around there is so much going on at eye level ,you forget to look up,and you miss so much unadulterated beauty above the store signs and neon crap.It was as I turned the corner and looked above all the mindless Graffiti that I discover the Art deco treasure,that is the Post Office.Amazing! And yet it stands there looking almost abandoned.....If this were in New York or London, we would be charging people to come in and see it,probably housing some private art collection!
If you're looking for a date... go to the Supermarket.If you're looking for a wife....go to the Farmers market

Offline David

  • Registered User
  • Posts: 966
  • What’s So Funny ‘Bout Pizza Love and Understanding
Re: Napule'06
« Reply #8 on: September 18, 2006, 08:18:46 PM »
When I'm without my Wife and traveling alone I don't mind the slight inconvenience of staying in a suburb and enjoy the anonymity of a tourist in these areas.I had to pass a number of areas whose names have become familiar over the years as I have been researching my quest of Pizza Napoletana.Santa Chiara,Mergellina,Forcella,Vomero all started to have more resonance now.I was in Fuorigrotta this time and happened to have a couple of decent pizzerias in my immediate vicinity.The nearest to my hotel was DiNapoli.I passed it daily and dodged the crowd outside,but never did get to actually try it?The other is Cafasso.I heard of it someplace but on the night I visited I had to wait an hour for a table.I wasn't prepared for that,so I decided to grab a Marinara to go and head back to my hotel.Here is the marble oven that spit it out and the resulting point of reference.Not bad...
If you're looking for a date... go to the Supermarket.If you're looking for a wife....go to the Farmers market

Offline David

  • Registered User
  • Posts: 966
  • What’s So Funny ‘Bout Pizza Love and Understanding
Re: Napule'06
« Reply #9 on: September 18, 2006, 08:32:59 PM »
I was running out of time and there was no shortage of pizzerias to visit.An early start took down to forcella and gain the good intention of hitting DaMichelle for lunch.It was way before opening time but as i was in the vicinity I figured I would go past anyhow.It was a lovely morning again and the doors were open so I  stuck my head in for a glimpse.The fist person i saw was Don Luigi who i recognised from the website,as he offered me a smile i offered him a glimpse of my camera and he allowed me the priveledge of a few photo's during this quiet moment.Again I recognised Bill's oven .....................OOPS! DaMichelle's Forno.
If you're looking for a date... go to the Supermarket.If you're looking for a wife....go to the Farmers market


Offline pftaylor

  • Registered User
  • Posts: 1113
  • Location: Tampa, FL
  • Life's Short. Get Wood Fired Up!
Re: Napule'06
« Reply #10 on: September 18, 2006, 08:45:15 PM »
David,
What a great report. Thank you for sharing with us. I can't wait to go myself.
Pizza Raquel is Simply Everything You’d Want.
www.wood-firedpizza.com

Offline David

  • Registered User
  • Posts: 966
  • What’s So Funny ‘Bout Pizza Love and Understanding
Re: Napule'06
« Reply #11 on: September 18, 2006, 08:52:41 PM »
Well the early bird got the pictures,but I was again too early for lunch.Regretfully I spent the next couple of hours looking at ridiculously cheap (relatively ) Cheeses,Wines and Oils that I knew I just couldn't bring back to the good ol' US of A.Boy was that frustrating........there is a bunch of Lombardi's in Naples just as there are Ray's in New York,but the one I decided to go for was Lombardi a S.Chiara on via Benedetto Croce......Smack ,bang ,wallop in the middle of tourism central.
I think they use a crescito here,and the crust was particularly flavorful IMO.The funniest part here was the older guy instructing the younger to make me a Margarita and his total and utter lack of interest!Usually these things are knocked out with minim effort,maximum speed and slight of hand.The guy who made mine insisted in enjoying every last gasp of his cigarette in between each maneuver ! It was hilarious.
Having said that  as I took my last bite ,a Tour guide walked through the door with a party of thirty for lunch,so I guess he was just reserving his stamina.
If you're looking for a date... go to the Supermarket.If you're looking for a wife....go to the Farmers market

Offline David

  • Registered User
  • Posts: 966
  • What’s So Funny ‘Bout Pizza Love and Understanding
Re: Napule'06
« Reply #12 on: September 18, 2006, 09:17:10 PM »
Satisfied but yet dissatisfied,I still hadn't had my DaMichelle fix and knew that I had to squeeze one in today.So I hot footed it down the hill to meet the throng lining the lunchtime sidewalk.I boldly stepped forward through the crowd knowingly unknowing.
Uno senior !.....
A quick glance at the close circuit TV monitor and I was immediately pointed to my seat in the adjacent room.No fuss.No wait.traveling solo has it's rewards.I joined three gentlemen ( Bus drivers?) and was promptly served.Glancing around it seemed a balanced mix of Italian workers and Italian tourists.Nice.Funnily enough in many busy cities it seems that when you leave the street and enter a restaurant  there is little difference between the cacophony outside and the organized mêlée inside? What struck me about this place was the relative calm and order in here when the place was full to capacity and we are in the nerve center of a Metropolis that is about a calm as Cairo in a Terrorist attack. Beautiful ! 
If I'm to be completely honest ,this Marinara was not my favorite and I was surprised at just  how different this pizza is to others I've tried?Maybe I should have gone for the Margarita?Maybe I'm looking into this too much?Maybe I've ate too much.....I just know it wasn't number 1 for me,and I was really expecting it to be.Go figure?
If you're looking for a date... go to the Supermarket.If you're looking for a wife....go to the Farmers market

Offline scott r

  • Supporting Member
  • *
  • Posts: 3075
  • Age: 43
  • Location: boston
  • I Love Pizzafreaks!
Re: Napule'06
« Reply #13 on: September 18, 2006, 09:38:04 PM »
I've heard this from others.

American tastes?

Offline David

  • Registered User
  • Posts: 966
  • What’s So Funny ‘Bout Pizza Love and Understanding
Re: Napule'06
« Reply #14 on: September 18, 2006, 09:39:41 PM »
My Espresso addiction was pleasantly and affordably under control during my time in Naples and I admit that I did have to venture into Gambrinus just once to stand at the bar  alongside the definition of female sartorial elegance that first drew my attention at this famed Caffe.Thank you Napoli!
It was time to head back up the funicular to Vomero and check out Gorizia.Vomero appears to be quite a well heeled area of town with beautiful apartments and Villas cascading down the hillside below.Gorizia holds deserved  poll position as it should giving it's long history.
This turned out to be my favorite pizza so far.It's the first time I've knowingly had a pizza made with polselli,so maybe that had something to do with it,I don't know? Everyone here was very friendly and accommodating, to the point where I saw one guy bring in his own salami and ricotta for a personalized Calzone !I did take some video here but have yet to get my head around it.....when I do I'll post it for you.Thanks,
                                                                                                                                    David
If you're looking for a date... go to the Supermarket.If you're looking for a wife....go to the Farmers market

Offline scott r

  • Supporting Member
  • *
  • Posts: 3075
  • Age: 43
  • Location: boston
  • I Love Pizzafreaks!
Re: Napule'06
« Reply #15 on: September 18, 2006, 09:44:17 PM »
polselli,  If I remember correctly it costs two or maybe even three times the amount that caputo does!

That flour provided the best flour of my trip as well.  According to Marco thats what they use at antica costa as well.  YUMMMM

Offline David

  • Registered User
  • Posts: 966
  • What’s So Funny ‘Bout Pizza Love and Understanding
Re: Napule'06
« Reply #16 on: September 19, 2006, 10:40:08 AM »
I've heard this from others.

American tastes?

No I don't think it's a case of that really Scott?It's just very different from the seemingly majority of others I tried in Naples,both visually and taste wise.If the majority were more like them then I might agree.Unfortunately I still have not been to Salvo,Sorbillo or Costa to compare.Next time soon..... ;)

« Last Edit: September 19, 2006, 10:57:04 AM by David »
If you're looking for a date... go to the Supermarket.If you're looking for a wife....go to the Farmers market

Offline Bill/SFNM

  • Lifetime Member
  • *
  • Posts: 4039
  • Location: Santa Fe, NM
Re: Napule'06
« Reply #17 on: September 19, 2006, 10:53:38 AM »
David,

Sounds like you had a very successful trip. Thanks for the great posts & photos. There is a small chance I'll be in Naples next month - I had doubted I would have time to make the side-trip there, but your photos have inspired me to see if I can't break away, if only for a day.

Bill/SFNM

Offline David

  • Registered User
  • Posts: 966
  • What’s So Funny ‘Bout Pizza Love and Understanding
Re: Napule'06
« Reply #18 on: September 19, 2006, 11:00:07 AM »
Hi Bill,
         Here's the link to the short video at gorizia.It just shows how they get the pie onto the peel working together.I know you have been to naples before,but if you haven't been here you really should go. (And don't forget the Floridiana Park just around the corner !!)

If you're looking for a date... go to the Supermarket.If you're looking for a wife....go to the Farmers market

Offline pizzanapoletana

  • Registered User
  • Posts: 958
  • Location: London -UK
  • Pizza Napoletana as it was made in 1730!
    • Forno Napoletano - Pizza Ovens
Re: Napule'06
« Reply #19 on: September 19, 2006, 11:22:14 AM »
Gorizia does a great pizza but is not due to Polselli, which doesn't cost 2 or 3 times by the way. The technique they use is indeed one of the original autentic. One of my teachers and the owners of Gorizia were related way in the past.... so I should guess they use a similar method, a good one...

About Il Presidente, I would be very surprised if he now use San felice. Noone in the city does and you can usually find that flour only south near Salerno... What is more, I know Ernesto, the masterpizzamaker, has used a mix Caputo Rossa e Pizzeria for a very long time...

Very nice pictures, anyway.

My opinion on the pizzafest, this year, is that it was a really poor edition. There was not even 1 pizzeria that could claim to be rappresenting an authentic ancient Pizza napoletana... Well, let's hope for the future!

Ciao


 

pizzapan