I wrote to the Post about the pizza recipe and 00 flour. Seeing no response from them, I sent it to the author, who writes a food-related blog.
Here is here response:
I appreciate your concerns regarding my dough recipe. And coming from the tri-state area where people are really passionate about pizza, I realize dough elicits some heated debates. I wouldn't venture to write a piece as I did without doing some serious research. Though I've been working with pizza dough for home cooking for years, I began researching for journalistic purposes for the Washington Post Express; the research I did out of curiosity far outweighs what's in this piece or the one to which you are responding.
In talking to Frank Morales from Rustico, Carol Greenwood from Comet, and Roberto Donna from Bebo, all three of them explained how they made their dough in and each one was somewhat different from the other. I also talked to Wolfgang Puck in person about his pizza dough and what makes it different or better in his mind than anyone else's. I'm not sure any of these chefs would call another's defective or off because it was different.
That said, I'm not a professional chef and I value constructive criticism from you. You may be right on the 00 flour not being great for ovens that don't reach over 550 degrees However, heating my oven up for an hour with two stones makes it hotter than 550 degrees in there. Some newer ovens don't crank that high. Also, just so you know, Bonnie Benwick and Joe Yonan didn't just go on my word; I made it for them and delivered it to the offices of the Washington Post as part of the process of writing the piece. In addition, it was recipe tested several times over by their testers in their home ovens.
There are alot of point for point comments I can address in your letter, but rather than do that, until I were to better understand your preferences, I'd just say this. Even people from the New York metro area don't necessarily embrace one pie as a gold standard; some people are all about DiFara's while others think Lombardi's is still terrific. And in this town, Vace gets kudos, but I'd rather have my own; the crust is too spongy for me. In short, I appreciate your concern. I don't pretend to be an expert, but even if I were, I do think that pizza crust cultivates loyalties and divisions like those inspired by the Yankees versus the Mets. Just ask Adam Kuban of SliceNY, or for that matter, any of the chefs who make it here in town.
Thank you for your thoughtful letter. I would be happy to make your recipe and report back on how terrific it is once I'm done!
Sincerely, Melissa McCart