Link and text from The New York Timeshttp://events.nytimes.com/2008/12/31/dining/reviews/31brief-002.html?ref=dining
December 31, 2008
DINING BRIEFS | RECENTLY OPENED
New Pizzeria in Williamsburg Shows Promise
By PETE WELLS
319 Graham Avenue (Devoe Street), Williamsburg, Brooklyn, (718) 599-8899, motorinopizza.com.
The air over New York is not yet so thick with smoke from brick ovens that we can afford to let a promising new pizzeria slip away. Thatís why Motorino, which opened in October in Williamsburg, is worth rooting for.
It hasnít yet offered me a perfect meal. But it improved enough between two visits to inspire hope that Motorino will eventually launch itself into the upper strata of the cityís pizzerias.
Some of its pizzas are strictly modeled on Neapolitan patterns, like the margherita and the marinara. Even when making cautious forays into originality, like the Pugliese pie, topped with broccolini, burrata cheese and sweet sausage, Motorino hews to classical ideals.
The earnestness, the simplicity, the sense of proportion all predicted a date with pizza bliss. It didnít happen, though, on a first encounter in October. The crust was tender inside and delicately crisp outside and the tomatoes were sweet and unmessed with. Why did it feel as if something was missing?
Something was: salt. Clearly more attention was being paid to seasoning on my second outing, and the pizzas snapped into focus. The margherita ($10) was impeccable, and the buffaline ($16), a white pie lavishly coated with creamy buffalo mozzarella, made time stand still, at least for a minute or two.
Unfortunately, with those improvements came fresh troubles. A special of baked artichokes ($7) was fragrant with lemon, herbs and olive oil, but a challenge to ingest, each forkful delivering a mouthful of inedibly fibrous leaves. The broccolini on the Pugliese pie ($15) was rewardingly spicy but had been left in long strands, so with one bite came a whole stalk. I used my fingers, and wondered why such good food insisted on playing hard to eat.
Copyright 2008 The New York Times Company