Author Topic: Essen1's NY-style pizza project  (Read 104985 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline Essen1

  • Supporting Member
  • *
  • Posts: 3279
  • Location: SF Bay Area
    • The Hobby Cook
Re: Essen1's NY-style pizza project
« Reply #780 on: December 24, 2011, 02:40:18 PM »
No offense, Mike, but, at this point, I think the pizzeria guys you're talking to (for the most part) should be taking advice from you, not the other way around  ;D

Thanks for the words of encouragement!  ;D
Mike

"Anyone who has never made a mistake has never tried anything new."  - Albert Einstein

http://thehobbycook.blogspot.com/


Offline PizzaSean

  • Registered User
  • Posts: 175
Re: Essen1's NY-style pizza project
« Reply #781 on: December 24, 2011, 03:11:13 PM »
Those pies look wonderful!

I admit that I haven't done much looking through the thread for the answer to this question, but:

Can you talk about your approach to mushroom preparation that you've used in the most recent pics you've posted?  They look perfect and with very low moisture...

Thanks!
Sean

Offline Essen1

  • Supporting Member
  • *
  • Posts: 3279
  • Location: SF Bay Area
    • The Hobby Cook
Re: Essen1's NY-style pizza project
« Reply #782 on: December 24, 2011, 03:15:55 PM »
Those pies look wonderful!

I admit that I haven't done much looking through the thread for the answer to this question, but:

Can you talk about your approach to mushroom preparation that you've used in the most recent pics you've posted?  They look perfect and with very low moisture...

Thanks!
Sean

Sean,

They're fresh mushrooms, sliced thin. I never saute or nuke them before they go on a pie.

What I do is I slice them thin into a bowl or container, then let them sit on the counter for awhile, shuffling them once in awhile. After about 30 mins you can feel that they lost some of their moisture. That's pretty much it.

Mike

"Anyone who has never made a mistake has never tried anything new."  - Albert Einstein

http://thehobbycook.blogspot.com/

Offline scott123

  • Registered User
  • Posts: 6968
Re: Essen1's NY-style pizza project
« Reply #783 on: December 24, 2011, 04:37:01 PM »
Scotty,

I think I'll stay in the 2% - 2.5% range of oil when using the Pendleton flour. That range has given me great results so far. However, I'm not saying completely 'No' to your suggestion of 3% but the next dough is already in the making, using 64% hydration.

On the matter of using the steel plate, I think I have finally found the sweet spot, temperature-wise, of 565F, give or take a few. That temp has produced the best results so far, with the steel plate on the middle rack. Looks like I'm getting closer to those elusive Marcello's & Avellino crusts.

Mikey,

Don't get too attached to a particular temperature.  Water takes a lot of heat to boil.  As you increase the hydration of a dough, you generally want to increase the temperature accordingly. If you don't increase the temp, the additional water will slow down the bake and you'll just end up with a longer bake time. If you're hitting 5 minute bakes at 565 w/ 60% hydration, then, at that same temp, you could be talking 7 minutes with a 64% hydration. To maintain that superior 5 minute oven spring/charring on the undercrust, I think you'll want to go to at least 580 with the 64% dough. Water is a very sluggish breadmaking participant- it can be quite the wet blanket  ;D

And I'm not really suggesting 3% oil.  Anything between 1 and 3% is fine. In the right setting, oil can provide some tenderness and oven spring, but more/less of it doesn't always guarantee superior results. Predicting what more (or less) water will do is not that difficult.  Predicting what more/less oil will do is a lot harder.

Offline PizzaSean

  • Registered User
  • Posts: 175
Re: Essen1's NY-style pizza project
« Reply #784 on: December 24, 2011, 06:11:41 PM »
Very interesting! Only once did I succeed with that way of dealing with fresh mushrooms but it was my favorite. Then I started to expediment with nuke and saute. Glad to hear your method and to see the end product. Thanks!

Offline Essen1

  • Supporting Member
  • *
  • Posts: 3279
  • Location: SF Bay Area
    • The Hobby Cook
Re: Essen1's NY-style pizza project
« Reply #785 on: December 24, 2011, 06:24:19 PM »
Very interesting! Only once did I succeed with that way of dealing with fresh mushrooms but it was my favorite. Then I started to expediment with nuke and saute. Glad to hear your method and to see the end product. Thanks!

Sean,

I've made some pies with only mushrooms on them and never had a major problem. Quite the contrary, actually. The juice released by the 'shrooms adds a nice subtle flavor to the gooey mess.
Mike

"Anyone who has never made a mistake has never tried anything new."  - Albert Einstein

http://thehobbycook.blogspot.com/

Offline Essen1

  • Supporting Member
  • *
  • Posts: 3279
  • Location: SF Bay Area
    • The Hobby Cook
Re: Essen1's NY-style pizza project
« Reply #786 on: December 24, 2011, 06:25:18 PM »
Pics from the last bake...

Mike

"Anyone who has never made a mistake has never tried anything new."  - Albert Einstein

http://thehobbycook.blogspot.com/

Offline Essen1

  • Supporting Member
  • *
  • Posts: 3279
  • Location: SF Bay Area
    • The Hobby Cook
Re: Essen1's NY-style pizza project
« Reply #787 on: December 24, 2011, 06:28:34 PM »
Mikey,

Don't get too attached to a particular temperature.  Water takes a lot of heat to boil.  As you increase the hydration of a dough, you generally want to increase the temperature accordingly. If you don't increase the temp, the additional water will slow down the bake and you'll just end up with a longer bake time. If you're hitting 5 minute bakes at 565 w/ 60% hydration, then, at that same temp, you could be talking 7 minutes with a 64% hydration. To maintain that superior 5 minute oven spring/charring on the undercrust, I think you'll want to go to at least 580 with the 64% dough. Water is a very sluggish breadmaking participant- it can be quite the wet blanket  ;D

And I'm not really suggesting 3% oil.  Anything between 1 and 3% is fine. In the right setting, oil can provide some tenderness and oven spring, but more/less of it doesn't always guarantee superior results. Predicting what more (or less) water will do is not that difficult.  Predicting what more/less oil will do is a lot harder.

Scotty,

Thanks for the heads-up on the temp. I'll definitely adjust the temp to the higher hydration.

Regarding the oil, I think I'm going to start with 2% and either work my way up or down the scale.
Mike

"Anyone who has never made a mistake has never tried anything new."  - Albert Einstein

http://thehobbycook.blogspot.com/

Offline scott123

  • Registered User
  • Posts: 6968
Re: Essen1's NY-style pizza project
« Reply #788 on: December 24, 2011, 07:07:52 PM »
Looks great, as usual, Mike.  Could you taste the apple juice in the finished crust?

Offline Essen1

  • Supporting Member
  • *
  • Posts: 3279
  • Location: SF Bay Area
    • The Hobby Cook
Re: Essen1's NY-style pizza project
« Reply #789 on: December 24, 2011, 07:49:56 PM »
Looks great, as usual, Mike.  Could you taste the apple juice in the finished crust?

Scotty,

No, not one bit.

My guess is, just like Chau was suggesting, that they may add the AJ for more acidity or sugar. But I don't think it has any major impact on the crust structure itself.
Mike

"Anyone who has never made a mistake has never tried anything new."  - Albert Einstein

http://thehobbycook.blogspot.com/


Online norma427

  • Lifetime Member
  • Global Moderator
  • *
  • Posts: 21838
  • Location: Lancaster County, Pa.
    • learningknowledgetomakepizza
Re: Essen1's NY-style pizza project
« Reply #790 on: December 24, 2011, 10:17:13 PM »
Mike,

Nice experiment with the apple juice!  Great looking pie!  :)

Norma
Always working and looking for new information!

Offline Essen1

  • Supporting Member
  • *
  • Posts: 3279
  • Location: SF Bay Area
    • The Hobby Cook
Re: Essen1's NY-style pizza project
« Reply #791 on: December 25, 2011, 12:49:18 AM »
Mike,

Nice experiment with the apple juice!  Great looking pie!  :)

Norma

Norma,

I wouldn't call it an experiment rather then a copy of a pro formula I recently received.

Obviously, I can't reveal the entire dough formula here out of respect for the source. The crust was quite good but I don't know if I'd make it the same way next time. The only thing I can tell you is that the percentage of AJ was 3.5% (rounded up) and the yeast was 0.04% (also rounded up).

Perhaps if I'd increase the AJ we'd see some impact but I am not sure if it's worth it.
Mike

"Anyone who has never made a mistake has never tried anything new."  - Albert Einstein

http://thehobbycook.blogspot.com/

Offline Essen1

  • Supporting Member
  • *
  • Posts: 3279
  • Location: SF Bay Area
    • The Hobby Cook
Re: Essen1's NY-style pizza project
« Reply #792 on: December 25, 2011, 04:53:32 PM »
I was working on a 64% hydration dough formula for tonight's bake and took Scott123's suggestions into account of lowering the sugar and raising the hydration compared to my last pies. The TF was 0.075 which brings the individual dough ball weight to 546 grams.

Here's what I've concocted...

Flour (100%):
Water (64%):
ADY (.3%):
Salt (1.75%):
Oil (2.5%):
Sugar (1.5%):
Total (170.05%):
Single Ball:
642.72 g  |  22.67 oz | 1.42 lbs
411.34 g  |  14.51 oz | 0.91 lbs
1.93 g | 0.07 oz | 0 lbs | 0.51 tsp | 0.17 tbsp
11.25 g | 0.4 oz | 0.02 lbs | 2.02 tsp | 0.67 tbsp
16.07 g | 0.57 oz | 0.04 lbs | 3.57 tsp | 1.19 tbsp
9.64 g | 0.34 oz | 0.02 lbs | 2.42 tsp | 0.81 tbsp
1092.95 g | 38.55 oz | 2.41 lbs | TF = 0.07575
546.48 g | 19.28 oz | 1.2 lbs

I'm shooting for a look similar to Ray's or John's of Bleecker. I don't know if that's possible but I'll try. I'll also get some Grande mozza for those pies, some Sopressatta and Italian sausage.  ;D

Mike

"Anyone who has never made a mistake has never tried anything new."  - Albert Einstein

http://thehobbycook.blogspot.com/

Offline Ronzo

  • Registered User
  • Posts: 1407
  • Age: 43
  • Location: Leander, TX
  • Beer, freedom n' pizza...
    • New Texian Brewery
Re: Essen1's NY-style pizza project
« Reply #793 on: December 25, 2011, 08:24:31 PM »
Dear Gawd Yer Killin Me!!!
Fuggheddabowdit!

~ Ron

Former NY'er living in Texas
http://newtexianbrew.com - http://ronlennex.com/ - http://pinterest.com/NewTexianBrew

Online TXCraig1

  • Registered User
  • Posts: 12696
  • Location: Houston, TX
Re: Essen1's NY-style pizza project
« Reply #794 on: December 25, 2011, 08:37:40 PM »
Mike,

I ate a pie at John's of Bleecker St. a couple weeks ago after I left Keste, and your's looks every bit as good if not better!

Craig
Pizza is not bread.

Offline Essen1

  • Supporting Member
  • *
  • Posts: 3279
  • Location: SF Bay Area
    • The Hobby Cook
Re: Essen1's NY-style pizza project
« Reply #795 on: December 25, 2011, 09:00:20 PM »
Mike,

I ate a pie at John's of Bleecker St. a couple weeks ago after I left Keste, and your's looks every bit as good if not better!

Craig

Craig,

Thank you very much.

But let me ask you, what did you think of John's and how was the crust and the flavor of the sauce? The thing is , I don't know if I can achieve the nicely darkened cornicione of John's you see in the pic.

Ray's is probably more in my grasp given my limited oven capabilities.


Ron,

Those were Net pics picked off of Google. They look great, don't they? Now go and wipe off that keyboard  ;D

Happy Holidays to all on this board.
Mike

"Anyone who has never made a mistake has never tried anything new."  - Albert Einstein

http://thehobbycook.blogspot.com/

Online TXCraig1

  • Registered User
  • Posts: 12696
  • Location: Houston, TX
Re: Essen1's NY-style pizza project
« Reply #796 on: December 25, 2011, 09:30:29 PM »
Craig,

Thank you very much.

But let me ask you, what did you think of John's and how was the crust and the flavor of the sauce? The thing is , I don't know if I can achieve the nicely darkened cornicione of John's you see in the pic.

Ray's is probably more in my grasp given my limited oven capabilities.

It was good, but the flavor of crust and sauce were just OK. I have no doubt you can surpass both. Yes, the crust was darker. Maybe oil it before you bake? In any case, you can overcome the color issue with the other elements.

CL
Pizza is not bread.

Offline Essen1

  • Supporting Member
  • *
  • Posts: 3279
  • Location: SF Bay Area
    • The Hobby Cook
Re: Essen1's NY-style pizza project
« Reply #797 on: December 25, 2011, 09:38:52 PM »
It was good, but the flavor of crust and sauce were just OK. I have no doubt you can surpass both. Yes, the crust was darker. Maybe oil it before you bake? In any case, you can overcome the color issue with the other elements.

CL

Craig,

Matthew was able to produce some coal-fired looking pies in his SAGE countertop oven. I was thinking about buying one myself but a 240 V outlet is needed and there's no way in hell that my Apt management would let me install it.

I might try the oil again but I know from past experiences that although it provides some degree of coloration on the outer crust, it won't go as dark as John's...or Totonno's for that matter.

We'll see...time to get creative  :)
Mike

"Anyone who has never made a mistake has never tried anything new."  - Albert Einstein

http://thehobbycook.blogspot.com/

Offline Essen1

  • Supporting Member
  • *
  • Posts: 3279
  • Location: SF Bay Area
    • The Hobby Cook
Re: Essen1's NY-style pizza project
« Reply #798 on: December 25, 2011, 09:43:45 PM »
Those pies look wonderful!

I admit that I haven't done much looking through the thread for the answer to this question, but:

Can you talk about your approach to mushroom preparation that you've used in the most recent pics you've posted?  They look perfect and with very low moisture...

Thanks!
Sean

Sean,

A couple more words about the 'shrooms prepping...

I always buy them fresh, meaning they are displayed in bulk not packaged and wrapped with plastic foil as you might see in many supermarkets. Then they get sliced thin as you can see in the pics. Rarely do I have a problem with them flooding the pies with their liquid.

 
Mike

"Anyone who has never made a mistake has never tried anything new."  - Albert Einstein

http://thehobbycook.blogspot.com/

Offline scott123

  • Registered User
  • Posts: 6968
Re: Essen1's NY-style pizza project
« Reply #799 on: December 25, 2011, 10:21:50 PM »
I might try the oil again but I know from past experiences that although it provides some degree of coloration on the outer crust, it won't go as dark as John's...or Totonno's for that matter.

Mike, although I think your pies are already better than John's or Totonno's, if you really want to emulate the appearance of their crust, put the cheese under the sauce and use the broiler during the bake.  If your plate is towards the top of the oven (6" or less vertical space), then about 3 minutes of broiling should give you that much color- assuming that the broiler stays on. That much top heat will normally brown the cheese too much, but if it's under the sauce, it should be fine.

Like I said, though, I think John's is a step down from what you're doing- unless, of course, you just want something different.
« Last Edit: December 25, 2011, 10:31:50 PM by scott123 »