Author Topic: Iacono's Pizza Columbus, Ohio  (Read 208 times)

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Offline 333meg

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Iacono's Pizza Columbus, Ohio
« on: January 12, 2017, 02:24:34 PM »
Iacono's Pizza was started by the second son of Tommy Iacono of Tommy's Pizza fame, which Aimless Ryan has so gratefully brought to us all here. There was a rift created of some sort between the two brothers with various theories as to why out there, but regardless the younger brother split off on his own, and created Iacono's Pizza. He chose to open up in the same Upper Arlington suburb of Columbus, Ohio as Tommy's Pizza, and where I was so happily raised. As I grew up I didn't even know how lucky I was to have these two amazing pizzerias at my beck and call. I ate both pizzas regularly and didn't really take sides, they were both excellent and were different in slight ways. Now I would think that the younger Iacono fella was privy to the iconic Tommy's Pizza recipe, but maybe not? Was that what caused the rift? It could be but one theory points to the notion that Tommy Iacono was a Sicilian Italian, raised in NYC, and he was going to leave Tommy's to his eldest son only, therefore pushing out the younger son, which would be super sucky if that be the case. So Ryan and I are going on another pizza adventure tomorrow to the storied Iacono's Pizza. I'll be writing up our thoughts and opinions after we go. It's been at least 10 years since I've eaten there, at least but probably longer! I switched to only Tommy's for some forgotten reason. I would love to hear from anyone else who has input on the differences between the two. Ryan of course, BigMoose? And other Upper Arlingtonian's like Tedcholl or Floridian what are your thoughts? I am excited to rediscover Iacono's!
Pursuing pizza has put me into an airplane, in a car and on road trips of hundreds of miles...

Offline Aimless Ryan

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Re: Iacono's Pizza Columbus, Ohio
« Reply #1 on: January 13, 2017, 06:03:16 PM »
Today, thanks to 333meg, I finally had Iacono's for the first time. I had waited many years. A few years ago I thought I was going to be able to try Iacono's, after a day at the zoo with my parents and my young cousin. But when we stopped at the Sawmill Road location, it had recently closed its doors.

Today I thought 333meg and I were going to have a copy of Tommy's, but I could tell right after seeing our pizza that not everything would be the same. Starting with the pepperoni. Every large Tommy's pep comes with about 150 Ezzo GiAntonio pepperonis. This one had about 20 pepperonis. Not Ezzo; not really noticeable.

It was good, though. It had some elements of Tommy's—most notably laminated crust—but it also had plenty of differences. Unlike probably most "cracker style" pizzas, this pizza was actually a lot like a cracker. I think it would be pretty/very easy to clone Iacono's. In fact, 333meg and I both said we think we have made essentially the same pizza before.
Ryan
http://www.ryanspizzablog.blogspot.com

Disclaimer: Don't necessarily believe anything I say here. My brain ain't quite right anymore (unless it is). If I come off as rude or argumentative, that's probably not my intention. Rather, that's just me being honest, to myself and everyone else; partly because I don't have enough time left to BS either you or myself. If you are offended by anything I say, it's probably because you think lying to people (to be "polite") is a good idea. I don't.

Offline Aimless Ryan

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Re: Iacono's Pizza Columbus, Ohio
« Reply #2 on: January 14, 2017, 08:36:52 AM »
Here are some thoughts/assumptions about Iacono's (yesterday) after having slept on it:

• Dough was made yesterday morning, for same day.
• Dough probably bulk fermented for 3-4 hours, then was sheeted/laminated shortly before lunch.
• Not overfermented; probably underfermented. (I bet their dinner pizza is noticeably different than lunch.)
• Not docked.
• Maybe 5% oil. I'm inclined to think possibly less: 3-5%, perhaps.
• Maybe 48-50% hydration.
• Just enough yeast to make a dough that may be ready in 4 hours and last 12 hours at room temperature. 1%?
• Crumbly/fragile. I had crumbs all over my lap. It was from thin layers of crust breaking off.
• Very thin. My guess is TF=0.07. Possibly thinner.
• 8-10 layers.
• Noticeable salt flavor. Not sure if that came from crust or cheese.
• Not greasy.
• Seemed to have been baked without a pan, on stone.
• No blisters.
• Provolone, of course.
• Not sure if their dough ever gets cold. Probably not, unless they refrigerate skins. Need to go back at dinner.
• Low/no sugar in dough. (Crust was fairly pale.)
• 333meg said she tasted malt. I'm still not sure how malt affects crust flavor. Regardless, I tried 333meg's bare crust-eating trick. A couple times.
Ryan
http://www.ryanspizzablog.blogspot.com

Disclaimer: Don't necessarily believe anything I say here. My brain ain't quite right anymore (unless it is). If I come off as rude or argumentative, that's probably not my intention. Rather, that's just me being honest, to myself and everyone else; partly because I don't have enough time left to BS either you or myself. If you are offended by anything I say, it's probably because you think lying to people (to be "polite") is a good idea. I don't.

Offline Floridian

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Re: Iacono's Pizza Columbus, Ohio
« Reply #3 on: January 14, 2017, 07:38:47 PM »
Pretty sure I am coming to CBus in early July. Going to try Iacono's for sure when I get up there

Meg, I am sure you are familiar with the UA 4th of July parade. We used to live on the parade route and my parents through some EPIC parties

I actually was in the 1976 (bicentennial) parade. Good times 
Tommy's pizza fan. Trying to emulate Tommy's using Aimless Ryan's recipe

Offline Aimless Ryan

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Re: Iacono's Pizza Columbus, Ohio
« Reply #4 on: January 15, 2017, 12:57:05 PM »
I changed my mind regarding whether I think our Iacono's pizza baked on a pan. I'm now inclined to think it baked on an unperforated pan, as I don't remember any flour or cornmeal on the bottom of the pizza, nor were there any small circles from perforations.

However, the pizza was very flat, with no marks that indicate it baked on a pan.
Ryan
http://www.ryanspizzablog.blogspot.com

Disclaimer: Don't necessarily believe anything I say here. My brain ain't quite right anymore (unless it is). If I come off as rude or argumentative, that's probably not my intention. Rather, that's just me being honest, to myself and everyone else; partly because I don't have enough time left to BS either you or myself. If you are offended by anything I say, it's probably because you think lying to people (to be "polite") is a good idea. I don't.

Offline 333meg

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Re: Iacono's Pizza Columbus, Ohio
« Reply #5 on: January 16, 2017, 12:05:53 PM »
No noticeable dock marks, and the underside is quite unremarkable. I did enjoy eating there, especially with Ryan. We laughed at our own intensity regarding pizza, and Ryan was very right in calling us Pizza Geeks. I used that term to explain to our waiter why we were so excited to be there. I agree that our next visit should be timed around dinner to see any differences in the dough, as well as a 2nd visit in general because of pizza variability. Iacono's is a very different pizza than Tommy's and so I won't say which one is better than the other. Iacono's does put the pepperoni under the cheese and I would say I prefer it on top if I had to choose. Ryan made a good point in that it was reminiscent of a tavern style pizza and I completely agree with that. I also got a pie to go to take home to my man, it had sausage on it and the sausage was not Italian sausage like I like. It was plain pork sausage that wasn't seasoned enough or at all, so I wouldn't get that again. Yes, I made Ryan eat the deconstructed slice! Unfortunately he didn't taste the malt flavor that I was getting. That background flavor is the same one I get from Tommy's from time to time and have been trying to get while making the Tommy's clone.

Floridian, Yes July 4th was a huge deal for us! Our whole block shut down for a Block Party every year. Also, I'm pretty sure I was in the same parade you mentioned! I was 4 years old and it was the first time I was in the parade. I decorated and rode my bike with the other pee-wee riders. How funny, we were both there all those years ago and now here on Pizzamaking.
Pursuing pizza has put me into an airplane, in a car and on road trips of hundreds of miles...


Offline Aimless Ryan

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Re: Iacono's Pizza Columbus, Ohio
« Reply #6 on: January 16, 2017, 01:16:02 PM »
Notice in 333meg's picture above:

• No blisters.
• Not much browning.

Maybe some other things, too. But those two qualities tell us so much. The reason why 333meg and I both thought we'd already accidentally made a good Iacono's clone is because their pizza is pretty much ready to bake right after sheeting. For a long time I didn't realize contemporary Tommy's skins need at least 12 hours in the fridge before baking. Consequently, I've baked a lot of Tommy's style pizzas way too early, and so has anyone who has relied on my instructions (like 333meg). A lot happens during that time in the fridge.
Ryan
http://www.ryanspizzablog.blogspot.com

Disclaimer: Don't necessarily believe anything I say here. My brain ain't quite right anymore (unless it is). If I come off as rude or argumentative, that's probably not my intention. Rather, that's just me being honest, to myself and everyone else; partly because I don't have enough time left to BS either you or myself. If you are offended by anything I say, it's probably because you think lying to people (to be "polite") is a good idea. I don't.