Al taglio

Started by Duje, January 22, 2025, 04:01:24 PM

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Duje

Today I was in a pizzeria that makes al taglio pizza.  The pizza was perfect.  He tells me that the dough ferments for up to 10 days.  I am now interested in how pizza al taglio is actually made, what is the secret?  Are preferments used as in modern napoletana pizza (biga etc) or is the dough aged in the mass?  What flours are used, must they be some strong flours for such a long fermentation?  How much hydration?  Also the pizzaolo told me that it is baked 3 times, the final one in front of the customers, does anyone know more about this?  I am interested in general things about al taglio pizza, some articles or topics on this forum.

parallei


jsaras

This is a translation of the Italian "disciplinare" document originally found here:  www.laconfraternitadellapizza.forumfree.it

 


Production disciplinary of the
"AUTHENTIC ROMAN PIZZA
High Hydration "
Premise
The "Confraternita della Pizza" association operates with the intent of to spread and spread the culture of conviviality in general and of pizza in particular, promoting its nutritional and those aspects distinguish quality. Among the different types of pizza, with this document the Association intends to set the criteria that characterize the product "Pizza in Teglia alla Roman ". The Disciplinary is not articulated as a favorite recipe compared to others, but represents the need to identify the points in common, between the different interpretations, already existing on the territory, and of identify the limits of possible variables, which can be admitted, to beyond which the product would lose its original connotation to take on other, different ones. The approval of this specification will be through presentation to the public at the VI National Convention, a IGEA MARINA, on 27, 28 and 29 May 2016. In that circumstance the members of the Forum of the Confraternity of Pizza will be able to sign this specification


Part.1
History of Roman-style pizza
High hydration Roman-style pizza spreads in the 80s and 90s, thanks to the initiative of some Roman pizza chefs, who they created it, taking inspiration from pre-existing doughs for bread, significantly increasing hydration and developing one specific mixing and management procedure for this product. The high quality of the product immediately sanctioned its success and pizza in Roman-style pan spread rapidly over the territory, becoming in a few years one of the most requested and appreciated foods, also thanks to the great contribution provided by other pizza chefs, who they enriched it with elegant, very balanced and refined condiments, thus meeting the most modern food tastes.


Today the Pizza in Teglia alla Romana is sold in the vast majority majority of Roman and Lazio pizzerias and is considered as one of the Great Classics of Street Food, continuously reinterpreted and elaborate, thanks to its formidable adaptability.

Part.2
The characteristics of the product
The Pizza in Teglia alla Romana is a baked product, cooked in a pan normally with dimensions of 23.6 x 15.75 inches, which gives it shape rectangular. It has a thickness between 15 and 30 mm, homogeneous on the entire surface, without no bulging on the cornice and no major or minor areas thickness or density. The lower surface, cooked in contact in a special blue iron pan, it is dry, without greasy traces and with a light consistency and
crumbly, with a very reduced thickness and yielding to the bite. The upper surface appears uniform, with slight depressions well widespread and regular, with very light rind, light hazel color. The crumb is characterized by a wide or even very wide alveolation (with alveoli also up to 10-15 mm in diameter), regular and uniform.
It has an extremely soft, slightly moist and very consistency melting on the palate, characteristics all conferred by the highest hydration of the dough. Pizza seasoning can take on a variety of configurations,
starting from white pizza, without any seasoning, to a simple one emulsion of water and oil, with a few grains of salt, with spices and seeds sprinkled on the surface, to reach the classic pizza toppings (margherita, marinara, etc ...), up to the most elaborate condiments refined, which see the meeting of meat and fish in every possible way composition. Every raw material used for seasonings (mozzarella, tomato, vegetables, oil, cheese, etc ...) must be necessarily "Made in Italy" and produced according to the best food quality and safety standards. In addition to the particular pleasantness on the palate, the Pizza in Teglia alla Romana makes use of two particularly relevant characteristics, which they give it absolute recognition and uniqueness among all leavened products: the high degree of hydration and high digestibility. Hydration, in fact, calculated as the ratio between water and flour, can vary from a minimum of 75% up to a maximum of 100%, finding already an optimal ratio of 80% (example: water g. 800- flour g. 1.000). This very high percentage of hydration, obtainable only thanks to
special kneading techniques, gives a specification consistency to the dough first and then to the product, so as to connote it in main route and also guarantees its very high digestibility, also thanks to the long maturation / leavening.


Part.3
Ingredients
For the dough the ingredients are: 00 or 0 soft wheat flour, yeast of beer, plain water, sea salt or table salt, oil
extra virgin olive oil. Other allowed ingredients are: re-milled durum wheat semolina at the maximum percentage of 15% of the total flour, pasta sourdough or filler paste. Olive oil, oil are also allowed sunflower seeds, peanut oil and corn oil. The soft wheat flour 00 or 0 must have the following features:
- W 300 - 380
- P / L 0.50 - 0.60
- Absorption 58 - 62
- Stability 15-20
- Fall Index 2.50 - 3.50
- Falling number (Hagberg Index) 300 - 320
- Dry gluten g% 11 - 12
- Protein 15 - 16

The flour must be natural, without adding additives, enzymes and preservatives and cannot take the form of a food preparation premixed.
The use of type 1 flour is allowed, in proportions such that, added to the semolina, it does not exceed 20% of the total flour.

Part.4
Methods and specifications of preparation and kneading
The kneading with high hydration requires techniques all at all details, which can be divided into two macro categories: technique traditional with electric mixers (which can be either the planetary, that the spiral, which also the dipping arms) and the technique "No Knead "(without dough), which is a kneading technique by hand, based on repeated series of folds designed to form the glutinic mesh.


The preparation phases are divided into "Kneading", "Leavening - episode", "Staglio e formatura", "Appretto", "Spreading and seasoning "," Cooking ".
Below are the procedures provided for one48 hour leavening. Longer leavenings are also possible, with longer stays in the fridge, up to 72 hours, but also shorter, up to a minimum of 24 hours, adjusting the amount of yeast.

1) Kneading
a) Kneading with a mixer
Ingredients (For a 40x60 cm baking tray):
Flour (medium-strong, with W between 300 and 380): g. 725
Water (cold at 4 °): g.580
Salt g.18 (equal to about 25 gr / kg of flour and 30 gr / liter of water)
Oil g.15 (equal to about 20 gr / kg of flour and 25 gr / liter of water)
Compressed Beer Yeast g.4 (and in any case a quantity between a minimum of 2 and a maximum of 6 gr / kg of flour, equal to a quantity between a minimum of 2.5 and a maximum of 7.5 g / liter of water)

Method:
You start by pouring all the flour, baking powder, oil and salt. Then the machine starts and pours g.430 of water. Far work the machine for a few minutes, until the gluten and obtain a dry dough, which comes off the walls. From that moment, add the remaining water (g.150), a small doses, letting the dough absorb it well before add more. The kneading must be completed within 20-25 minutes, with the introduction of all the water and with the mixture that will have taken an appearance and a semi-fluid consistency, yet cohesive and compact.

b) "no-knead" kneading.
Ingredients (For a 40x60 cm baking tray):
Flour (medium-strong, with W between 300 and 380): g. 725
Water (cold at 4 °): g.580
Salt g.18 (equal to about 25 gr / kg of flour and 30 gr / liter of water)
Oil g.15 (equal to about 20 gr / kg of flour and 25 gr / liter of water)
Compressed Beer Yeast g.4 (and in any case a quantity between a minimum of 2 and a maximum of 6 gr / kg of flour, equal to a quantity between a minimum of 2.5 and a maximum of 7.5 g / liter of water)

Pour all the ingredients into a large container and mix that just enough for the flour to absorb water. Be careful to avoid mixing too much. The dough should maintain a lumpy and unfinished appearance. Any excess kneading and melting of lumps can lead to serious execution defects or even to the failure of the recipe. Wait an hour. Dust the counter with flour in adequate quantity, turn it over the dough and proceed to the first series of folds of the dough. In the first phase, you will need to help yourself with tarot cards for collect the dough and fold it, since it will look and feel consistency of a muddy and lumpy mixture. Fold the dough with a three fold (the two edges of the dough folded and superimposed towards the center) and repeat the operation two or three times. Then wait 15 minutes and repeat the series of folds, always flouring the work surface well. Again a 15 minute break and proceed with a new set of folds. Finally, the last 15 minute break and the last set of three folds. At each stage it will be noticed that the mixture takes on consistency and firmness at the last fold it will appear dry and well compact.

In both types of kneading, the final temperature of the dough it must be not less than 18 ° and not more than 26 ° and possibly it must be between 21 ° and 23 °.

2) Leavening - episode
Wait for the yeast-ripening process to begin, for a time that varies according to the final temperature of the dough, preferably for one hour (for temperatures between 21 ° and 23 °), which can be reduced to a minimum of half an hour (for temperatures included between 24 ° and 26 °) and increase up to a maximum of one and a half hours (for temperatures between 18 ° and 20 °). After this time, put the mass in a closed container and refrigerate at 4 ° for about 44 hours. Alternatively they are allowed leavening from a minimum of 24 hours to a maximum of 72 hours. For No-Knead kneading only, no break is required and yes places in the fridge directly.


3) Sieving and forming
Dust the work surface and turn the dough over it. Proceed with the portioning, calculating the weight of the dough as follows:

Area of the pan divided by two, more or less 20%. (Example: for a 60 x 40 tray, proceed as follows: 60 x 40 = 2400/2 = 1,200. This result (in grams) can be reduced or increased up to a maximum of 20%. So from a minimum of 960 grams, up at a maximum of 1,440 grams) Once the dough has been weighed, it is formed by means of one or more folds, depending on the degree of stringing you want attribute. Once the dough is closed, it will be placed in an airtight container for the second leavening, called "starch". NB: regardless of the overall duration of the leavening which it will be decided to follow, it is allowed to proceed with the screening already after first 20 hours of leavening and forming. In the case of leavenings of 48 or 72 hours, they can be repositioned in fridge the dough. This solution can allow you to always have ready and ready dough silhouetted, available at short notice.


4) Leavening - starch
The dressing has the function of completing the formation of gas into the dough and to reach the correct phase of "pasta point", which then allows a correct spreading of the dough without the two opposite defects of excessive elasticity or excessive extensibility. The duration of the dressing depends on the leavening and the degree of development of the glutinic mesh. Reach a correct and balanced leavening and drying stage extensibility of the dough is the result of competence and experience operator. The dressing takes place in a closed container, kept at temperature environment and lasts from a minimum of three to a maximum of four hours.

5) Spreading and seasoning
Once the dressing is finished, we proceed with the drafting phase. Check that the dough has reached a temperature of at least 19 °to the heart. The blue iron tray will be prepared (duly pre-treated for make sure the anti-adhesion), which will be greased with a veil of oil extra virgin olive oil and with the help of a brush, greasing only the perimeter and diagonals, with minimal amount of oil. A flour mat will be placed on the work surface and yes it will flip over the dough, directly from the container, covering it then with more flour. With the only help of the fingers, the dough will be rolled out in one uniform and homogeneous layer, shaping it in a rectangular form. You will then pass the dough on your arms and from there you will move it into
baking tray, for the subsequent very delicate laying phase.
This phase consists in distributing correctly and uniformly all the dough on the pan, making sure that the gases and the pasta come evenly distributed, even in the corners, by moving gently knead the dough and tap it with the tip of your fingertips. A correct drafting will lead to a final product with a thickness homogeneous, with well distributed and uniform gas bubbles, without large ones isolated bubbles. Once the drafting is complete, the dressing is prepared and prepared before cooking itself, which also in subsequent stages, so that part of the dressing is placed halfway through cooking or even at the end cooking, "cold".

6) Cooking
The cooking takes place in an electric oven, with stalls at 300 ° - 320 ° (a depending on the oven used) and the top 200 °, without ventilation, for one time that varies according to the hydration of the dough and the seasoning used, from a minimum of 8 to a maximum of 13 minutes. After cooking, take care to place the Pizza on one wire rack for a correct cooling phase, which allows to maintain the crispness and slight crunchiness of the base without it is weighed down by any steam condensation.

Part.5
First Signatories
This Disciplinary has been discussed and developed on the forum de There Brotherhood of the Pizza (www.laconfraternitadellapizza.forumfree.it) by the most expert fans of the subject and will be officially presented during the course of the VI National Convention of the Confraternity of Pizza, in the 27, 28 and 29 May 2016. On that occasion, all those who participated in the drafting, giving their contribution, they will approve this specification will be considered "First Signatories". To allow even those who are distant to participate to the formal approval of this specification as "Primi Signatories ", a remote accession procedure will be set up, by sending an e-mail message, accompanied by a suitable person identity document, for a limited period of time, to come established and communicated during the Convention. For the "First Signatories", as recognition of their contribution given for the drafting of the specification, adherence to this specification it will not involve any cost. All those who intend to join later, can do so in the manner that will be developed later. Thus drafted, printed in a single copy, approved and signed, in Igea Marina, on May 29, 2016.



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