Pizza Making Forum

Pizza Making => New York Style => Topic started by: Papa T on April 24, 2021, 07:30:25 AM

Title: When Pizza Calls - A really "quick" to make NY style pizza.
Post by: Papa T on April 24, 2021, 07:30:25 AM
NY style pizza, 12 inches, 280 grams of dough. Start to finish, from mixing to out of the oven, was 2 hours 54 minutes.

I used about five ounces of low moisture, part skim mozzarella, about 4 ounces of a tasty canned and slightly modified pizza sauce, pepperoni, onions, green pepper, and black olives for topping. I also used a drizzle of EVOO, fresh ground black pepper, dried oregano, red pepper flakes, and some of that famous green container grated parmesan cheese as seasoning accents on the pie. A bit of spaghetti cheese rocks on fast pizza.

I used a room temp, double-rise for the dough, which took about 2 hours and 35 minutes. Opening the dough and topping took about 5-6 minutes, and baking about 12 minutes. I used this mixing method for all my pizza doughs now regardless of pizza style (except for cracker), whether fast RT ferment, or longer term ferment at RT or in the fridge. I donít do cold ferments much anymore. I'm using this fast batch dough method a lot more as it lets me make a from scratch pizza in just a few hours instead of a few days, and it has been well received. Homemade pizza is always pleases my guests, and face it, most are not that picky about the dough. If they were, they wouldn't be ordering delivered pizza that arrives up to an hour after baking and tastes like old, delivered, pizza.

Unless I'm going for that longer cold, stronger fermented flavor, which is rare for me anymore, I just do RT ferments on the counter in a sealed bowl. At RT, if you let it go for at least 12 and up to 18 hours, the flavor is noticeable. I haven't done a long cold ferment for months and nobody has complained and I make a lot of pizza for friends. I havenít used my stand mixer for pizza dough in months, either. When doing longer ferments, whether RT or long and cold, I use water at around 85-90F, and IDY at 0.5% (.005). But for a fast batch of dough like this, I use water around 120-125F and 2% IDY. The gluten structure comes out just fine using this method, and I don't need to use a stand mixer or knead the dough. I just let yeast and the stretching and folding of the dough a few times after the first rise do its thing.

I mixed this dough into a cohesive and tacky puck using a silicone spatula in a bowl, and then covered with plastic wrap. Mixing took about 3 minutes. I do it long enough to ensure that there is no stray particulate matter, and everything looks reasonably disbursed throughout the dough. There should be nothing powdery looking in the bowl. This dough about doubled in 1 hour and 25 minutes, so I uncovered it, and did five pull, stretch (or slap), and folds, on the dough, rotating the bowl a bit after each iteration. I then loosely formed it into a puck, and covered the bowl again. I also preheated my oven after this step. For me, the second rise always happens pretty quick.

After about an hour, the dough more than doubled in size. I knocked the gas out of it, and worked it into a ball on a lightly dusted counter; about 1 minute. I let is sit for about five minutes while retrieving my peel and toppings. I then pressed the dough ball out into about a 5 to 6 inch disk on a dusted counter top, and then dusted both sides of the disk in a plate of 50/50 KABF and semolina. Then I opened the dough on the counter that was lightly dusted in the 50/50 mix, using my fingers from center to edge, and rotating, until it was about 8 inches in size. Then, I stretched it out in the air over the counter, letting it hang from my knuckles to rotate it as gravity did the work of pulling it to size. I then placed it on the peel, which was also dusted with the 50/50 mix.

This dough was made using the NY style dough recipe I normally use, except that I used hotter water, and four times the IDY so it would rise quickly. To insure a quick rise, while I was gathering the ingredients to mix I turned the oven on max briefly. Once I had gathered all the dough ingredients, I turned off the oven. I did that so that once the dough was mixed by spatula, I could set the bowl covered on top of the stove, and the escaping heat from the oven would keep the area warmer than room temp.

While this dough wonít have the flavor of a dough fermented longer, it did make for some good crust. I most always use a RT rise and ferment, whether a quick batch like this, or when longer. RT is my go to. When I have the time, I use 1/4 the IDY and water around 85-90F and let it rise on the counter for several hours for both rises. Typically, Iíll do a double RT rise of 6 to 12 hours, but have gone as long as 18, and the dough was still fine. Itís pretty forgiving.

While these 6-18 hours ferments won't have the flavor of those longer cold ones, the dough does get some flavor from a 6-12 hours RT ferment. Nobody has complained or even commented on the RT rising and ferments, whether a couple hours or 18, or whether I'm making this style, DS, or South Shore. These three styles are my most requested, with DS and SS basically tied, and NY style 3rd. I have two friends that like cracker style, so I use my 1970s era Pizza Hut Thin & Crispy dough recipe and bake in cutter pans.

When I started the second rise for this dough, I turned on the oven to max (525F for mine) to preheat, with a half inch cordierite baking stone on the bottom rack. For the second rise, I left the dough bowl on top of the stove. The warmth rising from the pre-heating oven help accelerate the quick and large 2nd rise. Once the pizza went into the oven, I dropped the temp to 475F. Baking time on the stone was 12 minutes.

Had I preheated the oven to 475F instead of 525F, the baking would have taken longer, and the crust may not have browned as well. The high temp preheat, and then dropping the temp once the pizza hits the stone, lets the 525F heat of the stone bake the bottom nicely, while the oven temp has dropped a bit from opening the door, but will stay round 475F to bake the top and keep the top from being over done. This pizza was a bit wet in the middle due to all the veggies. The water runs towards the thinner middle of the pie as it steams. That keeps the center of the bottom from browning as well as the rest of the pie that gets thicker toward the edge, but if you want veggies, that's the trade off.

Photo descriptions below. BTW, the pie slid just fine on my peel when tested just before launching into the oven, then when I launched it, it decided to be funny, so itís not quite round. Still tasted great. Iím getting better at launching pies at the low height for the bottom of my oven, but itís easier to do when the deck is higher. Maybe I should put my 30 year old electric oven up on cinder blocks to make it stand a bit taller, LOL.

Note that I used a mix of KABF (12.7% protein) and Anthonyís vital wheat gluten (76.6% protein) to bump up the total protein content of the 160 grams of flour I needed to about 14.3%.

My dough recipe for this 280 gram batch:
160 g flour (156 g KABF, 4 G VWG), about 14.3% protein, 100%
103 g filtered water at 122F, 64%
8 g EVOO, 5%
3.2 grams salt, 2%
3.2 grams sugar, 2%
3.2 grams IDY (I used SAF Red), 2%
Total, 280.6 g

Photo descriptions:
#1: Dough after all ingredients mixed with silicone spatula.
#2: Dough after second rise from top.
#3: Dough after second rise from side.
#4: Opened dough topped with sauce.
#5: Topped with sauce and cheese.
#6: Topped with all the goodies.
#7: Pizza in the oven at the 6 minute mark. I rotated it 180 degrees at this point.
#8: Pizza out of the oven on a rack to cool a bit after the 12 minute bake.
#9-12: Slice closeups.
Last photo is the bottom, not included in the composites above.