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Offline Papa T

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Largest NY Slice style pizza I can make in my home oven
« on: July 07, 2021, 02:46:22 PM »
The largest NY Slice style pizza I can comfortably make in my home oven. I want to thank Peter (Pete-zza) for his suggestion made on my previous NY Slice pie post, https://www.pizzamaking.com/forum/index.php?topic=70313.msg675436#msg675436. He suggested that I try using a screen to make a pie larger than my stone. It was a game changer for me. Not only for this pizza, but for any size smaller. It makes my using a peel unnecessary, and ensures a clean placement of the pie to the stone when time to move it off the screen. Still great browning and crisp, and no worries about a rogue peel, LOL.

The only pizza screens I had ever used were the inexpensive aluminum mesh type and they work well, but with extended use, become rather unsightly looking. Not a fan. I have four Lloyd pans and they have been excellent. Iíve made dozens and dozens of pizzas in them and they are still in excellent shape, even after using metal tools. The 16 inch Lloyd PSTK screen costs three time the price of the typical aluminum screens, but since Lloyd pans have been grand, I bought the Lloyd 16 inch pizza screen. I was not disappointed.

I made my dough to make the 16 inch NY Slice style pizza using just the basics, flour, water, salt, and yeast. I used the RT, stretch and fold method to make the dough, and it was ready after seven hours, but I didnít use it until 9 hours after making it. If you keep the yeast amount small, the RT method works really well at giving you wiggle room on when you need to bake the pie. You can also just stick it in the fridge at any point after the three stretch and fold intervals and finish it off later when you have time. Things happen.

With dough ready to go, I put an ever so slight brushing of goop on the Lloyd screen. While likely not necessary, Iíve gotten to where anytime I bake any bread, pizza, cakes, muffins, etc., in or on a metal sheet or pan, it gets an extremely, extremely light application of goop. Goop is equal parts by volume of AP flour, neutral oil, and shortening. Mix well until a viscous paste. I store it on the counter in a closed container for a couple months without issue, but it can be kept in the fridge.

Goop is thick, viscous paste, even more so if kept in the fridge. I take a nylon fiber pastry brush and barely touch the tip into the goop, and brush the metal baking surface. You donít want to see goop, you want to see only minimalist brush strokes on every surface. Literally, that is enough. I used it on all metal baking surfaces that do not call for oil or buttering the pan and have never had anything stick. Ever. Great stuff.

My oven was preheated at itís maximum with a 16x14 inch cordierite stone on the bottom rack. At 45 minutes preheat, my infrared thermometer showed the stone temp range of 528F to 535 F at various spots, so time to bake this thing.

I opened and stretched the dough to make the pizza skin and placed it on the Lloyd screen and pulled it to the edge. Actually, just beyond the edge. I used a silicone pastry brush to lightly spread a bit of EVOO over the skin, and then sprinkled about 1/8 teaspoon of granulated garlic over it it. I then topped it with about seven ounces of my standard sauce of whole tomatoes with salt, that Iíve chopped with a pastry cutter, and 12 ounces of a 50/50 mix of LMPS and LMWM mozzarella I grated from blocks. I sprinkled on a bit of ordinary ground Romano and dried oregano, and then I put the screen on the blazing stone.

At the three minute mark, I checked the pizza and used an offset cake icing spatula to see if the pizza was loose. It pulled up without effort, so I slid it off the screen to sit directly on the stone. At the six minute mark, I rotated the pizza 180. I pulled the pizza at 11 minutes. This pizza was fully baked around the eight minute mark. Anything more than eight in my oven will make it more brown and crispy. Crispy was requested, so 11 minutes it was. More bake time much beyond 12 minutes would have caused some serious browning and darkening, and at 13 minutes, burning would have been likely. Your oven will be differeent.

Dough ingredients and instructions, no-knead, stretch and fold method, for a 525 gram dough ball (TF between .09 and .093):

Flour, KAAP, 305 grams, 100%
Water, RT filtered @78F, 213 grams, 70%
Salt, 6 grams, 2%
Yeast, IDY, 0.6 grams, 0.2% (scant ľ tsp). Note: ADY & IDY are about 0.75 grams per ľ tsp.
No oil, no sugar, but I went crazy on the water for NY Slice style. Nice spring on the crust though.

To calculate any batch size using this recipe, figure out how much dough you want to make, and multiply that number by .58072. That will give you the amount of flour needed (100%) for the batch. You can then calculate the other percentages from that flour quantity. For example, a 1200 gram dough batch would need 697 grams of flour (1200 X .58072). You can then calculate the hydration (.70), salt (.02), and yeast (.002) amounts on the 697 grams of flour basis.

All mixing and fermenting is done hand at RT. All the ingredients into the bowl. Mixed with a silicone spatula until just combined and shaggy, with no particulate matter hanging around. The occasional outlier is okay. Cover with something and let it rest 20-30 minutes so the flour and water can get happy.

After the rest, continue to mix with the spatula or by hand, your call, until perceptibly homogenous. Cover and let rest one hour. After the rest, do four stretch and folds, cover and rest for about two hours. After two hours, stretch and fold four times, cover and rest. After about two hours, stretch and fold four times again, and cover until ready to ball the dough for baking later. The dough should about double in two hours or so. After the last stretch and fold, Iíve often let it go six hours before balling without issue.

Youíre going to make the dough ball when close to pizza making time, which will degas it, cover it, and it will start rising again. I just cover the ball with the now empty dough bowl. The dough doesnít need to double, just relax so you can make it a skin. Generally, I make the skin about 30-60 minutes after making the ball, and into the oven as soon as itís topped. I preheat my oven when Iím ready to make the dough ball, as mine takes 30-40 minutes for the stone to hit temperature.

Step by step for RT no-knead:
1) Mix all ingredients until shaggy. Cover.
2) Rest 20-30 minutes.
3) Mix until homogenous, cover for one hour.
4) Four stretch and folds, cover for about two hours, or until about doubled.
5) Four more stretch and folds, cover for about two hours, or until about doubled.
6) Four more stretch and folds, and cover. Let it sit at RT until ready to make dough ball. Can be used when about doubled, or left to wait it out a few more hours.

If you want the dough faster for those last minute requests, you can double the yeast and heat the water to around 100-115F. The higher the water temp, the faster the process goes. Using 115F water, I can make a dough ball in 3 Ĺ to 4 hours, depending on the RT. The dough wonít quite be the same, but itís still going to be quite good. If they complain, they can make it next time.

When it close to pizza time, I removed the dough from the bowl and work it into a ball on a lightly dusted counter, using a blend by volume of 50/50 AP and semolina flour. Using semolina was a game changer for me in making dough balls and opening dough. Itís a non glutenous flour and a little goes a long way. You could use all Semolina but the 50/50 mix with ordinary cheap AP keeps the cost down. Once the ball was made, I let it rest on the counter with the empty bowl covering it. It will need to relax a bit before making the skin, about 30 minutes, but an hour wonít hurt.

I made this dough ball 4 Ĺ hours after the last stretch and fold and it was more than puffy. It had touched the cling wrap, and obviously more than doubled, but it came out fine as youíll see in the photos. This dough is really forgiving. I wouldnít push it too far, but Iíve gone six hours after the last stretch and fold, and itís been fine. If plans change, put it in the fridge and use a day or two later. When ready, take it out, let it come to room temp (1-2 hours), make the ball, let it rest, make the skin. Still comes out fine. Itís pizza, all of which is good.

Photos legend:
1. The 8-hour RT pizza ball.
2. The dough placed on the Lloyd screen. Notice in the lower left, I pulled the dough back a bit so you can see the screen. I actually stretched the dough a bit beyond the screen all around, knowing that it was going to shrink a bit withing a minute of hitting the hot stone. It did.
3. In the oven on the screen at one minute mark. Notice how it did shrink a bit.
4. The screen after sliding off the pizza into the stone around the 3-minute mark. Nothing stuck, and it cools fast. I could be making another pie while the other one is baking.
5. Pizza at about the 4-minute mark on the stone, no screen.
6. Pizza out at 11 minutes, on the cooling rack. The pizza did shrink to 15 ľ inches.
7. Bottom side of the really thin pizza. Good browning and crisp.
8. NY style slices.
9. Bottom of the slice in the photo #8 thatís at the 1 oíclock position.
10. Side view of same slice.
11. Close up view of same slice. Really crispy and thin bottom. Good crunch.
Everything sounds better in latin.
Omnis pizza 'est bonum.
Every pizza is good.

Making good pizza is not that hard, unless we choose to make it that way.

The best pizza you'll ever make for someone is making the one they ask for instead of making it the way we think it should be made.

Offline Pete-zza

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Re: Largest NY Slice style pizza I can make in my home oven
« Reply #1 on: July 07, 2021, 03:22:16 PM »
Papa T,

I have a perforated disk but I do not recall where I bought it. Most of the time I used a standard screen because I was trying to recreate Papa John's pizzas. But, at some point, PJ decided to gravitate toward using perforated disks rather than screens. A former PJ employee discussed this change in a post at Reply 239 at:

https://www.pizzamaking.com/forum/index.php?topic=6758.msg123167#msg123167

I also touched upon the screen/disk matter in a post at Reply 18 at:

https://www.pizzamaking.com/forum/index.php?topic=34724.msg350239;topicseen#msg350239

I later learned that Costco's used perforated disks in their in-store pizzerias:

Reply 240 at https://www.pizzamaking.com/forum/index.php?topic=6758.msg123174#msg123174 (Note: Pizza Tools is now Lloyd)

It's good to hear that you found the Lloyd perforated disk to work well for your larger pizzas. There are a lot of pluses to that product and brand.

Peter

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