There was a terrific article on Naples in the 6-19-2011 edition of the New York Times, written by Seth Kugel, aka, the Frugal Traveler. He fell in love with the city right away, and visited a couple of well known pizzerias, declaring them good but not great (didn't like the soggy crusts). He then ventured out one evening:
Back in Naples that night, I figured I was done with the famous pizzas and went to a random subway stop and set off in a random direction in search of a random pizzeria. The neighborhood where I landed, Mater Dei, had nothing going on, and I thought I had made a mistake. Then I noticed that on an extremely narrow street, throngs of 20-somethings had gathered outside a … a pizzeria?
This was your average neighborhood, but if Neapolitans were willing to wait 90 minutes for a table I knew this was not your average neighborhood place, an impression confirmed by a picture of the owner serving a pizza to Pope John Paul II and by evidence that Vittorio De Sica had filmed parts of “The Gold of Naples” with Sophia Loren there. I had arrived at Pizzeria Starita, famous among pizza cognoscenti but ignored by tourist hordes. (I was the only foreigner there that night.) All future pies I taste will be compared to the racchetta, a 7 euro pizza shaped like a racquetball racket, with ricotta and mushrooms hidden in the handle and tomatoes, eggplant and buffalo mozzarella on the would-be racket head.
Sounds delicious and I think I might go ahead and try a racchetta myself
Here's the link to the article: http://frugaltraveler.blogs.nytimes.com/2011/06/07/naples-must-sees-and-see-what-happens/