Author Topic: not really sure which direction to go.  (Read 1301 times)

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Offline PizzaValkenburg

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  • Location: camden maine
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not really sure which direction to go.
« on: April 25, 2013, 10:36:11 AM »
I work at a newly opened pizzeria in Maine. Im pretty excited to be making pizza again. the owner is a great cook makes some sensational toppings, shrimp and leek pizza with bonito flakes, spicy crab pizza, artichoke puree and taleggio... mm.. good stuff. anyway, i feel the dough is either managed poorly or one or more ingredients are out of wack, however i dont know where to begin.

the dough ball is 400g and is streched real thin (too thin IMO see through) to an oval shape it ends up being 10" wide x  20" long it gets put on an overturned half sheet pan, to give you an idea. the crust is soft, it seems to burn easy and stay doughy at the same time, ive tried firing at lower temps(in a wood fired oven), but i have trouble keeping the floor up to temp with out stoking the fire. so then its spinning the pie around trying to cook the bottom with out burning the crust. the crust seems to be more gumline than crisp.

ok so dough formula:

KABF        -82.35%
semolina  -17.65%
water       -70.5%
yeast       -1.47%
salt          -4.4%
sugar       -5.5%
olive oil    -6.6%

the fresh yeast and COLD water gets mixed together for 5 min then everything else goes in and is mixed for 5min on low speed then 15min on high( its an old Portuguese mixer with a spiral hook). the dough gets pulled out split into food grade buckets and ferments over night in the fridge 15 hours sometimes 30 hours if it doesn't get used. the dough gets divided into 400g and gets 1 fold for its final shape, then its right back in the fridge, until it gets used (usually that night).

when it comes out of the buckets it pours out easily, and IMO has an over ripe commercial yeast aroma. when the dough gets layed out they have to be deflated because the bubbles will take over the crust and burn.

i feel the owner is miss informed, hes knows nothing of bakers percentage, however he is interested in making some trial doughs maybe with old dough or a "sour dough" poolish.... please help!

« Last Edit: April 25, 2013, 10:42:14 AM by PizzaValkenburg »

Offline The Dough Doctor

  • Tom Lehmann
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Re: not really sure which direction to go.
« Reply #1 on: April 25, 2013, 12:37:13 PM »
For a wood fired oven dough there is a lot of sugar being added. This might explain the burning of the edges. The salt is also extremely high at 4.4%, I would be much happier to see it down at 2% or a little on either side of that. Your gum line issue has been discussed in a number of my published articles in PMQ Magazine (In Lehmann's Terms), but for now, I would say that it is resulting from 1)The sugar is so high so as to not allow the pizza to be baked sufficiently without charring (think underbaked pizza). 2) The pizza skin is being stretched so thin that the heat from the deck is passing right through the dough and being dissipated as steam when it is absorbed by the sauce and toppings on the pie which are essentially 90% water. When this happens the dough never gets hot enough to fully bake. To test this to see if it is the cause of the gum line, prepare a pizza skin in the normal manner, then cover with a sheet of plastic and allow the skin to proof at room temperature for 30-minutes, then dress and bake in the normal manner. If the gum line disappears you will have good direction as to what is causing it. If it doesn't, make adjustments to the salt level and delete the sugar and bake again to see if the gum line disappears. Since there are so many different things responsible for the formation of a gum line we may need to do a little more experimenting to find the root cause. Please keep us posted on your progress.
Tom Lehmann/The Dough Doctor