Link to articlehttp://www.nytimes.com/2008/06/18/dining/18briefs.html?_r=1&ref=dining&oref=slogin
June 18, 2008
South Brooklyn Pizza and Artisanal
By THE NEW YORK TIMES
South Brooklyn Pizza
451 Court Street (Fourth Place), Carroll Gardens; (718) 852-6018.
New Yorkers who love pizza will endure a lot to get a good one, like standing in line for an hour outside Totonno’s Pizzeria Napolitano or watching the time pass as Domenico DeMarco at Di Fara slowly hand-grates cheese, pizza by pizza. This behavior can be interpreted as a sign either of culinary focus or of lunacy.
Now, the dedicated can add a new pizzeria to their rounds, one with only two menu items: pizza margherita and chocolate chip cookies. There is a bar, but no takeout, no slices and no delivery.
Granted, both items are delicious. Although sometimes inconsistent, South Brooklyn’s $12 pizzas usually come from the coal-fired oven with the right amount of char on a crunchy crust, which is slightly thicker than what one might find at the end of a long wait at Di Fara.
The pie is oval, slicked with olive oil and bright with San Marzano tomatoes and a nudge of basil. The cheese is predominantly fresh mozzarella, although bits of fontina and Parmesan play supporting roles.
Jim McGown is the man behind the pizza. He’s a real estate developer who fell in love with both a Carroll Gardens woman and her neighborhood.
Two years ago he bought the bar P. J. Hanley’s, which came with an old coal oven in an adjacent 19th-century townhouse. He refurbished it and became obsessed, making only one thing.
That is, until one afternoon when his girlfriend’s sweet tooth started talking. So he assembled some chocolate chip cookie dough and baked it in the oven.
The resulting cookie ($2), doughy and in desperate need of a milk chaser, became the second menu item. KIM SEVERSON